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Wednesday, November 23, 2005

The Panama Hat Trail



Good travel books on Ecuador are hard to find. One that I can heartily recommend is The Panama Hat Trailwritten by American writer Tom Miller during the mid 1980’s. The author sets out to understand Ecuador through one of its principle icons and biggest exports, the so-called “Panama hat.” Miller begins by explaining that these popular straw hats are correctly called sombreros de paja toquilla. They came to be known as Panama hats because 19th-century American prospectors used to buy them in Panama while en route to the gold fields of California.

Miller tracks the production of these symbolic hats from the weaving town of Montecristi, which is famous for its fine quality hats, on Ecuador’s steamy west coast to the high Andes. His revealing tales about the exploitation of indigenous hat-makers and his speculations about the role the Panama hat trade has played in shaping Ecuador's history make for an instructive and entertaining read. Above all, Miller shows a genuine love of this beautiful South American country and its welcoming inhabitants. Here is one of my favourite lines from the book:

“To me, Ecuador has been a country with its head in the clouds, its heart on its sleeve, and its groin to the ground.” –Tom Miller

Tuesday, November 08, 2005

Quito's New Teleférico, Ecuador



One of the first things I did after arriving in Quito was to take a ride on the city’s new teléferico, a cable car that whisks passengers from an altitude of 2950 metres (9,676 feet) to a lookout over 4000 metres (over 13,000 feet) above sea level in only ten minutes. Quito's teléferico, which opened in July 2005, is located on the eastern side of Pichincha Volcano, one of Quito’s defining natural landmarks.



The teleférico complex has restaurants, stores, and even amusement park rides. However, spectacular views of Quito and the distant snow-clad-peak of Cotopaxi Volcano more than make up for the commercial atmosphere. The lookout at the top is an excellent place to get oriented before exploring Quito. There are also some hiking trails leading through the stark Andean landscape.