Nicaragua's Revolutionary Murals

During the 1980's, when the Sandinista government was in power, hundreds of revolutionary murals were painted on buildings and walls throughout Nicaragua. These vibrant "billboards of the people" celebrated the socialist ideals of the 1979 Sandinista Revolution, which were still fresh in the national consciousness. Sadly, after the Sandinistas lost the 1990 Nicaraguan elections, many of these artistic treasures were defaced or painted over.

Some of the best murals were executed in the handsome colonial city of Leon, which has always been a hotbed of leftist activity. On a return trip to Nicaragua in the fall of 2006, I was happy to see that the murals I had enjoyed almost ten years earlier still adorned Leon's walls. Like the ideals of the revolution, they had faded somewhat, but they were still intact.



My favourite mural covers the entire wall of a large building next to Leon's massive cathedral. A series of panels document the history of Nicaragua from the arrival of Nahuatl-speaking tribes from central Mexico during the 13th century to the toppling of the Samoza regime by the Sandinistas. The final section presents an idyllic future for Nicaragua with two children shown romping in a green field backed by a shimmering lake and smoking volcanos.



Across the street, another mural shows revolutionary leader Augusto Sandino stepping on the heads of both Uncle Sam and one of the Samoza dictators who oppressed Nicaraguans for much of the 20th century. Some of Leon's most compelling murals can be found in the Casa XXI, a former prison that has now been turned into the Museo de Tradiciones y Leyendas. These sombre works depict prisoners being tortured by Samoza's infamous National Guard.

Chichén Itzá is still a wonder, but for how long?

When I first visited the ancient Mayan city of Chichén Itzá on Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula over 20 years ago, I was awe-struck by the dramatic scale of its temples, sculptures, and ceremonial platforms. There were comparatively few visitors in those days, and I can remember scrambling to the top of the towering Pyramid of Kulkucán and having the spectacular view of the ruins practically all to myself.

On a return trip in 2003, I was dismayed at the changes that had occurred. Fleets of tour buses idled in Chichén Itzá's main parking lot, and so many people thronged the archaeological site that it felt like a Mayan version of Disneyland. Consequently, I had mixed feelings when I heard that Chichén Itzá has just been named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

Archaeologists are already expressing concerns that a new invasion of tourists could permanently damage the fragile ruins. Some of Chichén Itzá's buildings might eventually have to be roped off in order to protect them, which means that visitors won't be able to explore the site as freely as they can now. I will no doubt go back to Chichén Itzá. But I'm glad that I saw it when I did, before the crowds and parades of tour buses arrived.

The Chichén Itzá archaeological site is open daily from 8 am to 6 pm (5:30 pm in winter). The ruins are least crowded in the early morning and late in the afternoon.

Mexico: A Traveler's Literary Companion

Books have always been some of my favourite travel companions. I especially like reading works that give me some insight into the country I happen to be visiting. On my last trip to Mexico, I took along Mexico: A Traveler's Literary Companion,edited by C.M. Mayo. This compact volume is a blend of fictional short stories, book excerpts, and literary musings. Selections are organized by regions and cover the entire country of Mexico from its northern deserts bordering the United States to the jungles of the Yucatán Peninsula. The writings impart a strong sense of place, and they show this geographically and culturally diverse land through the eyes of some of its most perceptive contemporary writers. A highly recommendable travel companion for anyone looking to explore the literary side of Mexico.