Mundo Maya 2012 Celebrations

The ancient Maya viewed time as cyclical, and on December 21, 2012, the Maya Long Count calendar will reset itself to zero like a cosmic odometer, thus completing a cycle of 5,125 years. This portentous date may or may not herald a new age of enlightenment for mankind or signal the end of the world as various self-proclaimed prophets and doomsayers predict. But one thing is certain: there are going to be celebrations of all things Maya held throughout 2012 in the region known as the Mundo Maya.

To help travelers plan for these diverse events, Avalon Travel has just released MOON MAYA 2012: A Guide to Celebrations in Mexico, Guatemala, Belize & Honduras. The guide's author Joshua Berman manages to pack an impressive amount of information into this slim volume's 115 pages. There are chapters devoted to all four countries comprising the Mundo Maya. Included are descriptions of Maya archaeological sites, maps and directions, plus sections on 2012 tours, community tourism, and hotel packages. Each of these chapters begins with a first-person narrative -- something seldom found in today's guidebooks -- based on Joshua Berman's extensive travels in the region.

Sprinkled throughout the guide are interviews with archaeologists, authors, and other experts on the Maya. A concluding chapter supplies background on history and the Maya Long Count, as well as lists of relevant books, websites and films. There are even glossaries of words and common expressions in Yucatec and Tzotzil, two of the most widely spoken Maya languages. In short, this innovative and useful guide belongs in the backpack of anyone heading off to experience the Mundo Maya in 2012.

Also check out my post on Ten Places to visit in the Mundo Maya Before December 2012

Ten Places to Visit in the Mundo Maya Before December 2012

On December 21, 2012, the remarkable timekeeping machine that is the Maya Long Count calendar will reset itself to zero, thus marking the end of the current era that began in 3114 BC and heralding the start of a new creation cycle. This auspicious event will no doubt spark interest in all things Maya next year. It should also bring a lot of travelers to the Mundo Maya (Maya World), which encompasses the Mexican state of Chiapas, the Yucatán Peninsula, Guatemala, Belize, and parts of Honduras and El Salvador.

There are so many rewarding places to visit in the Mundo Maya that it's difficult to know where to begin. However, here is a list of ten destinations that I can definitely recommend seeing before the dawning of the new age (or the end of the world as some doomsayers predict).

Please click on the photos to view captions and larger versions.

Palenque, Chiapas, Mexico

Sequestered in the jungle of southern Mexico, Palenque is considered by many to be the most beautiful of the ancient Maya cities.



Chichén Itzá, Yucatán, Mexico

Chichén Itzá, the grandest archaeological site on the Yucatán Peninsula, has been named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.



Mérida, Yucatán, Mexico

The handsome Spanish colonial city of Mérida, capital of the state of Yucatán, remains one of the most intriguing and culturally rich cities in the Mundo Maya.



Cobá, Quintana Roo, Mexico

Weathered monuments and a jungle setting make Cobá one of the most atmospheric archaelogical sites in the Mundo Maya.



Tikal, Guatemala

The grandeur of Tikal's towering temples is unmatched in the Mundo Maya.



Chichicastenango, Guatemala

The misty mountain town of Chichicastenango is home to the largest indigenous market in the Mundo Maya.




Antigua, Guatemala

With its backdrop of towering volcanoes and handsome Spanish colonial architecture, Antigua is arguably the most alluring town in the Mundo Maya.



Lake Atitlán, Guatemala

Mesmerizing Lago de Atitlán is said to be the deepest lake in Central America. British writer Aldous Huxley called Atitlán "the most beautiful lake in the world."



Copán, Honduras

The ancient Maya city of Copán in Western Honduras has been dubbed the "Athens of the New World" because of its magnificent sculptures.



Lamanai, Belize

A boat trip up the New River in Northern Belize to the isolated Maya ruins of Lamanai is a true jungle adventure.



Also check out my review of the new MOON MAYA 2012: A Guide to Celebrations in Mexico, Guatemala, Belize & Honduras

Spanish Colonial Forts

When I was a child, I was always building forts -- snow forts, sand forts, tree forts, cardboard-box forts, you name it. I don’ know what this obsession stemmed from. Perhaps it had something to do with wanting to feel safe. Or maybe I had just seen too many pirate movies and Westerns. Whatever the reason, my love of forts followed me into adulthood, and it persists to this day. 

Not surprisingly, during my travels in Latin America, I have sought out and photographed forts of all kinds. The Spanish built dozens of them along the coasts of Mexico and Central America, as well as in the Caribbean. These imposing structures helped protect Spain’s colonies in the New World from foreign navies and raids by the likes of English and Dutch pirates. 

Below is a slide-show of forts in Latin America that I have explored. Each has a distinct personality. Some like the San Juan de Ulua fortress in Veracruz, Mexico, are forbidding and dungeon-like. Others are airy and even inviting like Acapulco’s Fuerte San Diego, whose sunlit interior has been painted bright yellow. However, all of these historical buildings have something in common: behind their high stone walls surmounted by rusty cannon lie stories begging to be told.

Move the cursor over the screen to read captions. Click on individual images to read captions. Click on individual images to see enlargements and for information on ordering prints or leasing photos for personal or editorial use,


Spanish Colonial Forts - Images by John Mitchell

Lanquin and Candelaria Caves: Guatemala Underground

Caves aren't usually among the first things that come to mind when you think of Guatemala. This intriguing Central American country is more famous for its colorful Maya handicrafts, handsome Spanish colonial towns, and mysterious pre-Hispanic ruins. However, northern Guatemala is dotted with limestone caverns that are sacred places for the contemporary Maya, whose ancestors saw caves as entrances to Xibalba, a mythical underworld populated by the Lords of Death and their assistants.

Two of the best known series of caves are Lanquin Caves and Candelaria Caves in the department of Alta Verapaz, a mountainous region still covered in patches of primary cloud forest. The Lanquin Caves are located about 65 kilometers (40 miles) east of the city of Cobán. For most of the way, the road to Lanquin is paved. However, the last part of the drive descends into a deep valley via a precipitous dirt road that could easily have been built by the Lords of Death.



A fast-flowing, emerald green river flows by the mouth of the cave's main entrance, whose small size belies the labyrinth that awaits within. Dimly lit and very slippery walkways wind  through endless dank chambers filled with stalactites and other eerie formations, many of which have been given fanciful names by the locals. Lanquin is not a place for the claustrophobic, and it is not spectacular as caves go. But it does give visitors a good introduction to Guatemala's underground world.

Much more dramatic are the Candelaria Caves, which lie about two hours north of Cobán near the town of Chisec. Candelaria's main cavern is almost 60 metres (200 feet) high and 200 metres (650 feet) long, and it is illuminated by natural light streaming through soaring fissures draped with greenery. There is a cathedral-like feeling of peace and magic here. It's no wonder that the Maya continue to revere this cave and use it for religious rituals.

The Lanquin Caves are open daily from 8am until 5pm. Admission for adults is 30 Guatemalan Quetzales (about US$3.75).

Grutas de Candelaria (Candelaria Caves) are located in a national park by the same name. The Candelaria complex is administered by local Q'eqchi Maya groups as part of an ecotourism project. Knowledgeable Maya guides take visitors on tours of the caves and on tubing trips (floating on rubber inner tubes) along the Candelaria River, which flows through the caverns. In addition, there is a rustic ecolodge that also functions as a hotel school.

Below is a slide-show with some of my photos from a recent trip to Alta Verapaz. Move the cursor over the screen to view captions. Click on individual images for information about ordering prints or leasing photos for personal, editorial, or commercial use.


Alta Verapaz, Guatemala - Images by John Mitchell

Tikal, Guatemala: Impressive as Ever

There can be no doubt that the Maya ruins of Tikal in northern Guatemala rank among the most impressive archaeological sites on the planet. I revisited Tikal in October and was once again awed by its grand scale and towering pyramids, which are arguably the most dramatic in the Maya world.

I spent several hours wandering along jungle trails and exploring hidden plazas surrounded by maze-like temple complexes, mossy pyramids, and abandoned ceremonial platforms. But the high point (literally) of my visit was the climb up the steep wooden staircase that clings to the side of 65-meter-high Temple IV, the tallest pyramid at Tikal and the second tallest built by Maya.

The panoramic view from the top of Temple IV is inspirational, and it is probably much the same as the one enjoyed by ancient Maya priests and astronomers whose lofty domain this once was. In the distance, Temples I and II stand like massive stone sentinels, poking their intricately carved roof combs through a dense forest canopy that unfurls like a green carpet for as far as the eye can see.

Below is a slide-show of my photos of Tikal and the nearby town of Flores located on an island in Lake Peten Itza. Move the cursor over the screen to view the captions. Click on individual  photos to see larger versions and for information about ordering prints or downloading files for personal, editorial or commercial use.


Tikal and Flores, Guatemala - Images by John Mitchell

Back to Guatemala: Central America Travel Market 2010

Last month (October) I was lucky enough to attend the Central America Travel Market or CATM 2010 in the Spanish colonial city of Antigua, Guatemala. Every year this important tourism fair is hosted by a different Central American nation. This year it was Guatemala's turn. The travel market was held on the grounds of the lovely Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, a restored 17th-century Dominican monastery, and Antigua's handsome colonial architecture and lively atmosphere provided a perfect backdrop for the numerous cultural events that were included in the program.

I hadn't been to Guatemala for several years, and it was wonderful to be back in this fascinating and colorful country. My recent visit has inspired me to put together a short slide-show of images from some of my favorite places in Guatemala. I've posted the result below.

Move the cursor over the screen to view captions. Click on individual  photos to see larger versions and for information about ordering prints or downloading files for personal, editorial or commercial use.


Guatemala Favorite Places - Images by John Mitchell

Guatemala's Mapa en Relieve

During my last stay in Guatemala City, I visited what has to be one of the world’s most unusual maps: the Mapa en Relieve, a giant relief map of Guatemala located in Parque Minerva. Dating back to the early years of the 20th century, this concrete and masonry map covers more than 1,800 square meters (19,500 square feet) and shows the entire country of Guatemala as well as Belize.

The map's builders used a horizontal scale of 1:10,000 and a vertical scale of 1:2,000 to exaggerate Guatemala's rugged topography. This dual scale produced steep-sided valleys and spindly mountain ranges with peaks that look like inverted ice-cream cones. Small signs mark cities, towns, and prominent physical features. Railway lines and roads are also clearly shown. A special hydraulic system simulates water bodies by pumping water into the map's rivers, lakes and oceans.

From walkways and strategically placed viewing towers, you can get a sense of Guatemala's remarkable physical diversity. The Mapa en Relieve has been declared a National Historic Monument by the Guatemalan government, and it provides an entertaining way for travelers to get oriented before they set out to explore the rest of the country.



The Mapa en Relieve is located in Zona 2, a short bus or taxi ride north of downtown Guatemala City. Opening hours are 9 am to 5 pm daily. Admission is about US$2.