Cancún's New Maya Museum

With its lavish five-star hotels, American-style shopping malls, and raucous nightclubs, Cancún is about the last place you might expect to find a world class archaeology museum. However, that is exactly what has been built in this popular resort city on Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula. 

The Museo Maya de Cancún, which was inaugurated in November 2012, is considered to be the most important project undertaken by Mexico's National Institute of Archaeology and History (INAH) since the construction of Mexico City's Templo Mayor Museum in 1987. The state-of-the-art museum was designed by Mexican architect Alberto Garcia Lascurain, and its construction reportedly cost 15 million dollars. Built to survive Cancún's capricious climate, the 4,400-square-foot structure features innovations such as steel-reinforced windows to resist hurricane winds, latticed concrete walls to ensure air circulation, and elevated exhibition halls to prevent flood damage to the museum's precious collections.



Hundreds of archaeological treasures from throughout the Maya region are on display in three spacious exhibition halls or salas, two permanent ones and another with temporary exhibits on loan from other museums in the area. The first hall that visitors encounter houses artifacts from the state of Quintana Roo (in which Cancún is located), including the 10,000-year-old remains of a woman found in a submerged limestone cave or cenote. The Sala Maya highlights broader aspects of the Mayan world with displays related to subjects such as daily life, architecture, art, and the natural environment. Floor-to-ceiling windows and an external walkway offer panoramic views of surrounding lush vegetation and of Laguna Nichupté, the sprawling tropical lagoon that borders Cancún's luxurious Hotel Zone.



Adjacent to the museum, and reached by a path winding through the forest, is the recently opened San Miguelito archaeological site that dates back some 800 years. Nestled among towering trees are the remains of residential complexes, ceremonial platforms, and altars, as well as a 26-foot-high pyramid. Exploring both the new museum and these ancient Mayan ruins hidden for so long in the jungle promises to be an eye-opening experience for many of the estimated 12 million tourists who arrive every year to enjoy modern Cancún's white sand beaches and hedonistic pleasures.

The Museo de Cancún is located at Km 16 on Kukulkán Boulevard in the Hotel Zone or Zona Hotelera. It is easily reached by public bus or taxi from downtown Cancún. Admission to the museum and archaeological site is 57 Mexican pesos (about $5.00 US). The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. (10 p.m. on Thursday). Get there early enough if you want to see the San Miguilito archaeological site as it closes at 5 p.m.

Mouse over the slideshow below to view captions. Click on individual images for information about ordering prints or leasing for editorial use.


Cancun Mayan Museum and San Miguelito Archaeological Site, Cancun - Images by John Mitchell

Mundo Maya 2012 Celebrations

The ancient Maya viewed time as cyclical, and on December 21, 2012, the Maya Long Count calendar will reset itself to zero like a cosmic odometer, thus completing a cycle of 5,125 years. This portentous date may or may not herald a new age of enlightenment for mankind or signal the end of the world as various self-proclaimed prophets and doomsayers predict. But one thing is certain: there are going to be celebrations of all things Maya held throughout 2012 in the region known as the Mundo Maya.

To help travelers plan for these diverse events, Avalon Travel has just released MOON MAYA 2012: A Guide to Celebrations in Mexico, Guatemala, Belize & Honduras. The guide's author Joshua Berman manages to pack an impressive amount of information into this slim volume's 115 pages. There are chapters devoted to all four countries comprising the Mundo Maya. Included are descriptions of Maya archaeological sites, maps and directions, plus sections on 2012 tours, community tourism, and hotel packages. Each of these chapters begins with a first-person narrative -- something seldom found in today's guidebooks -- based on Joshua Berman's extensive travels in the region.

Sprinkled throughout the guide are interviews with archaeologists, authors, and other experts on the Maya. A concluding chapter supplies background on history and the Maya Long Count, as well as lists of relevant books, websites and films. There are even glossaries of words and common expressions in Yucatec and Tzotzil, two of the most widely spoken Maya languages. In short, this innovative and useful guide belongs in the backpack of anyone heading off to experience the Mundo Maya in 2012.

Also check out my post on Ten Places to visit in the Mundo Maya Before December 2012

Yucatan Regional Museum of Anthropology and History in Mérida

Whenever I visit the Spanish colonial city of Mérida on Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, I always make sure to spend some time poking around the Regional Museum of Anthropology and History. This interesting museum is located in the Palacio Cantón, an imposing mansion that dates back to the early years of the 20th-century when Merida was home to wealthy families involved in the manufacture of henequén (sisal). The palace faces the broad Paseo de Montejo, a tree-lined boulevard said to have been modeled after the Champs Elysée in Paris.

Palacio Cantón was designed by the Italian architect Enrico Deserti and is named after its last resident General Francisco Cantón, a prominent figure in the Yucatan who died in 1917. Built in the Mannerist and Baroque styles, the building's facade sports ornate balustrades, elegant balconies, and neoclassical columns. Many of the materials used in its construction were imported from Europe, such as the marble used to fashion its gleaming floors.



Exhibits trace the history of the Yucatán Peninsula from the age of mastodons through Spanish Colonial times to Mexican Independence. There are plenty of Spanish colonial artifacts including religious paintings, coins, weaponry and the like. However, my favorite exhibits are the ones featuring Mayan artifacts from sites such as Chichén Itzá, Uxmal, Mayapán, and Ek Balam. Among the items on display are haunting stone sculptures, exquisite jade jewelry and ceramics, plus intricately carved stone censors or incensarios.



There are also plans and photographs of major archaeological sites, as well as a bookstore with numerous books on archaeology and history. All in all, a visit to the museum provides an excellent introduction for travelers planning to head out and explore the Yucatán Peninsula's historical towns, haciendas, and remarkable ancient Mayan cities.

The Museo Regional de Antropologia e Historía located on Paseo Montejo at Calle 43. The museum is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 8am to 8pm; Sunday from 8am to 2pm. Admission is about US$4.00.

Here is a short video about Palacio Cantón and the museum produced by Mexico's National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH). It's worth watching even if you don't speak Spanish.

Ten Places to Visit in the Mundo Maya Before December 2012

On December 21, 2012, the remarkable timekeeping machine that is the Maya Long Count calendar will reset itself to zero, thus marking the end of the current era that began in 3114 BC and heralding the start of a new creation cycle. This auspicious event will no doubt spark interest in all things Maya next year. It should also bring a lot of travelers to the Mundo Maya (Maya World), which encompasses the Mexican state of Chiapas, the Yucatán Peninsula, Guatemala, Belize, and parts of Honduras and El Salvador.

There are so many rewarding places to visit in the Mundo Maya that it's difficult to know where to begin. However, here is a list of ten destinations that I can definitely recommend seeing before the dawning of the new age (or the end of the world as some doomsayers predict).

Please click on the photos to view captions and larger versions.

Palenque, Chiapas, Mexico

Sequestered in the jungle of southern Mexico, Palenque is considered by many to be the most beautiful of the ancient Maya cities.



Chichén Itzá, Yucatán, Mexico

Chichén Itzá, the grandest archaeological site on the Yucatán Peninsula, has been named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.



Mérida, Yucatán, Mexico

The handsome Spanish colonial city of Mérida, capital of the state of Yucatán, remains one of the most intriguing and culturally rich cities in the Mundo Maya.



Cobá, Quintana Roo, Mexico

Weathered monuments and a jungle setting make Cobá one of the most atmospheric archaelogical sites in the Mundo Maya.



Tikal, Guatemala

The grandeur of Tikal's towering temples is unmatched in the Mundo Maya.



Chichicastenango, Guatemala

The misty mountain town of Chichicastenango is home to the largest indigenous market in the Mundo Maya.




Antigua, Guatemala

With its backdrop of towering volcanoes and handsome Spanish colonial architecture, Antigua is arguably the most alluring town in the Mundo Maya.



Lake Atitlán, Guatemala

Mesmerizing Lago de Atitlán is said to be the deepest lake in Central America. British writer Aldous Huxley called Atitlán "the most beautiful lake in the world."



Copán, Honduras

The ancient Maya city of Copán in Western Honduras has been dubbed the "Athens of the New World" because of its magnificent sculptures.



Lamanai, Belize

A boat trip up the New River in Northern Belize to the isolated Maya ruins of Lamanai is a true jungle adventure.



Also check out my review of the new MOON MAYA 2012: A Guide to Celebrations in Mexico, Guatemala, Belize & Honduras

On Mexico’s Riviera Maya, all roads lead to Cobá

Some days, it seems as if every tourist on Mexico's popular Riviera Maya is at the ancient Mayan ruins of Tulum. This really isn’t surprising given Tulum's spectacular location atop steep cliffs overlooking white-sand beaches and the blue Caribbean Sea. For my money, though, the most intriguing archaeological site in this region is Cobá, which lies about 42 kilometers (26 miles) northwest of Tulum.

Apart from its relative lack of crowds, Coba’s main appeal for me is its jungle setting. Coba’s temples and pyramids are shrouded by tall trees, which not only provide welcome shade but also lend the crumbling city a “lost world” atmosphere (think Indiana Jones). I also like the network of white limestone roads known as sacbés or sacbeob that crisscrosses the sprawling archaeological site, making it ideal for exploring by bicycle.

Cobá -- whose name apparently means “abundant water," "ruffled waters" or "turbid waters" (no one seems sure which) -- was built around five picturesque small lakes. This is rare on the Yucatan Peninsula, where most sources of fresh water are underground rivers. The largest of these lakes, Lago Cobá, is home to a colony of crocodiles, members of which can often be spotted lurking in the reeds that rim the lake shore. Locals seem to keep the crocodrilos well fed, possibly so that they won't develop a taste for tourists.

The city of Cobá reached its peak during the Late Classic Period (AD 600-900). It became the most powerful Mayan center in the northwestern Yucatan with an estimated population of 40,000 to 60,000 people. Coba’s extensive system of causeways, perhaps the longest in the Mayan world, connected it with numerous satellite towns that had fallen under its sway. One sacbé led to Yaxuná, some 100 kilometers (over 60 miles) to the west.

Most visitors to Cobá immediately set out on rented bicycles or in pedicabs to the massive Nohoch Mul pyramid, the second tallest Mayan structure on the Yucatan Peninsula. It’s a long, dizzying scramble to the top of this mound-like pyramid, but the inspiring view of the ruins and surrounding greenery from the summit make the huffing and puffing worthwhile.

As dramatic as Nohoch Mul pyramid is, I prefer some of the less-visited groups of buildings that lie scattered about the site. The Grupo de las Pinturas (Paintings Group) gets its name from the remains of blue and red murals found on top of its main temple. Unfortunately, the temple is now closed to the public, but this tranquil grove dotted with lopsided columns and platforms is ideal for contemplating the encroaching jungle and pondering the inevitable collapse of civilizations.

Farther along the same road lies the Macanxoc group, which harbors eight weathered stelae, stone monoliths covered in faded glyphs and ghostly outlines of human and animal forms. Stela 1 is one of the most famous carvings in the Mayan region because it reportedly bears a glyph marking 3114 BC, the beginning of the current Maya era that will expire on December 21, 2012. According to self-proclaimed profits and doomsayers, the arrival of this portentous date will either awaken a new enlightened consciousness in mankind or trigger cataclysmic events signaling the possible end of the world. 

NOTE: Although Cobá is less crowded than Tulum, it does get a lot of visitors, especially when the tour buses start arriving. Consequently, it is best to visit the ruins in the early morning or late afternoon. Renting a bicycle (US$3.00) is recommended as the archaeological site is very large. Pedicabs are also available for about US$10.00 if you prefer to let someone else do the peddling.

Below is a slideshow of some of my photos shot on a recent visit to Cobá. Move the cursor over the screen to view captions. Click on individual images to see larger versions and for information on ordering prints or downloading photos.


Coba, Quitana Roo, Mexico - Images by John Mitchell


 

Off on a Sacred Mayan Journey

Next week, I will be heading off to the Riviera Maya to attend the Sacred Mayan Journey event (May 19-21). This annual ceremony is the recreation of an ancient Mayan pilgrimage in seagoing canoes to the Island of Cozumel, where the Maya used to worship the moon goddess Ixchel. I shall also be visiting the archaeological sites of Tulum and Cobá. After my return, I will be posting reports of this trip (including lots of photos). So please check back later...

Copan Sculpture Museum: A Journey Through the Maya Universe

The ancient Maya city of Copan has been called the "Athens of the New World," mainly because of the remarkable stone sculptures that define these famous ruins in western Honduras. In order to preserve Copan's artistic treasures from the ravages of time, many sculptures have been replaced with on-site replicas and the originals moved to the spacious Copan Sculpture Museum next to the archaeological zone.

Visitors enter the partially buried museum through the toothy jaws of a Maya Earth monster and then proceed along a twisting tunnel that represents the path to the Maya underworld. Once inside the museum's vast atrium, they are confronted by a full-scale replica of Rosalila (Rose-Lilac), an impressive 1400-year-old temple that was discovered in 1989 beneath one of Copan's main structures.

Natural light from a huge opening in the museum's roof washes over Rosalila, bringing to life colorful stucco friezes depicting sacred ears of corn, birds, and two-headed monsters. Surrounding the two-story temple are hundreds of the finest stone carvings in the Maya world. They have been arranged to mirror Maya cosmology, which divided the universe into three levels: the underworld, the surface world, and the heavens.



Underworld denizens such as giant killer bats and wide-eyed demons populate the museum's lower floor, while heavenly beings and likenesses of Copan's nobles decked out in finery can be found on the upper level. Sections of intricately carved building facades are also on display, and the main gallery's ceiling has been decorated with Maya astronomical glyphs representing stars and planets.

Below is a slide-show of photos that I have taken on three visits (1996, 2006, and  2010) to the Copan Sculpture Museum. Move the cursor over the screen to read captions. Click on the images to see larger views and for information about ordering prints or leasing photos for personal or editorial use.


Copan Sculpture Museum - Images by John Mitchell

Tikal, Guatemala: Impressive as Ever

There can be no doubt that the Maya ruins of Tikal in northern Guatemala rank among the most impressive archaeological sites on the planet. I revisited Tikal in October and was once again awed by its grand scale and towering pyramids, which are arguably the most dramatic in the Maya world.

I spent several hours wandering along jungle trails and exploring hidden plazas surrounded by maze-like temple complexes, mossy pyramids, and abandoned ceremonial platforms. But the high point (literally) of my visit was the climb up the steep wooden staircase that clings to the side of 65-meter-high Temple IV, the tallest pyramid at Tikal and the second tallest built by Maya.

The panoramic view from the top of Temple IV is inspirational, and it is probably much the same as the one enjoyed by ancient Maya priests and astronomers whose lofty domain this once was. In the distance, Temples I and II stand like massive stone sentinels, poking their intricately carved roof combs through a dense forest canopy that unfurls like a green carpet for as far as the eye can see.

Below is a slide-show of my photos of Tikal and the nearby town of Flores located on an island in Lake Peten Itza. Move the cursor over the screen to view the captions. Click on individual  photos to see larger versions and for information about ordering prints or downloading files for personal, editorial or commercial use.


Tikal and Flores, Guatemala - Images by John Mitchell

Tlaltecuhtli Gets a New Home in the Templo Mayor Museum

It isn't surprising that Mexico City residents are continually unearthing ancient Aztec artifacts from beneath their feet. After the Spanish conquistadors razed the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan in the early 1600’s, they built their colonial capital right on top of the ruins.

As far back as 1790, the now-famous Aztec Sun Stone was found underneath Mexico City’s Zocalo. Sometimes erroneously called the Aztec Calendar Stone, this enormous disk covered in cosmological symbols is thought to have been a sacrificial altar. It now occupies a prominent spot in the National Museum of Anthropology in Chapultepec Park. Almost two centuries later, in 1978, electrical workers made an equally impressive find when they dug up a giant circular stone depicting the dismembered moon goddess Coyolxauhqui, one of the most important figures in Aztec mythology.



Until recently these two sculptures reigned as the largest Aztec artifacts to have been discovered. Then in 2006 workers demolishing two buildings at the corner of Argentina and Guatemala Streets in Mexico City’s Historical Center uncovered a richly carved slab that turned out to be bigger than either the Sun Stone or the Coyolxauhqui stone. Fashioned from pink andesite, the rectangular monolith measures 4.2 meters by 3.6 meters and is about 40 centimeters thick. Archaeologists have determined that the sculpture bears the likeness of the earth goddess Tlaltecuhtli who, according to myth, gives birth to all living things and also devours them.

Tlaltecuhtli’s appearance is anything but inviting. She is depicted in an awkward squatting position as if giving birth. Her facial expression is fierce, and blood streams from her gaping mouth. Instead of hands and feet she has menacing-looking claws. One of them clutches a date glyph corresponding to 1502 A.D, suggesting that the monolith might have been the tombstone of Lord Ahuizotl, a ruler of Tenochtitlan who died that same year. Tlaltecuhtli’s knees and elbows are human skulls, and her skirt is decorated with crossed bone designs. The sculpture was painted in four colors – white, black, ochre and red – and substantial amounts of the original pigments are still visible.



In 2007, the Tlaltecuhtli monolith, which was found in four parts, was taken to a temporary location on Argentina Street for study and restoration. Then almost three years later, on May 17th 2010, two cranes gingerly transported the mammoth sculpture to the Templo Mayor Museum adjacent to the ruins of the Great Temple that stood at the heart of Tenochtitlan. This monumental task took 31 hours to complete and was managed by employees of Mexico’s National Institute of Archaeology and History (INAH).

In order to fit Tlaltecuhtli into the Templo Mayor Museum, the building’s main doors had to be temporarily removed. In addition, the foyer of the museum was reinforced with special braces so that it could support the 12-ton sculpture. Tlaltecuhtli is thought to have been a cult deity worshipped by Aztec priests, and offerings associated with the earth goddess are displayed in glass cases surrounding the sculpture. The monolith has been placed in a reclining position, and visitors can get an eagle’s eye view of Tlaltecuhtli from the museum’s upper floors.

The Templo Mayor is located at Seminario 8, next to the Metropolitan Cathedral. The ruins and museum are open Tuesday through Sunday (closed Mondays) from 9 am to 5 pm. The entrance fee is 51 pesos (about US$4.50), which includes admission to both the Templo Mayor archaeological site and the adjacent museum.

Move the cursor over the screen of the slide show below to view captions. Click on static images to view larger photos and for information about ordering prints or licensing.


Templo Mayor, Mexico City - Images by John Mitchell

So many World Heritage Sites, so little time...

When I first started traveling to Mexico in the 1980's, one of my goals was to eventually visit all of that country's UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The list was considerably shorter back then, but it was still an ambitious project.

Mexico now has 31 properties (27 Cultural and four Natural) inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, which is more than any other nation in the Americas. I've managed to explore 25 of these sites over the years, and I hope to be around long enough to complete my plans. However, this may not be as easy as it sounds. Mexico has a lineup of places waiting to be added to the World Heritage List, so it promises to keep getting longer.

Some of the most recent sites in Mexico to have been submitted to UNESCO for consideration are the Spanish colonial city of San Luis Potosi, Ria Celestun and Izamal in the Yucatan, as well as the surrealist sculpture garden of Las Pozas in the state of San Luis Potosi.

Here is a slide-show of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Mexico that I've been lucky enough to visit. Please mouse over the screen to view the captions. Click on individual images for information about licensing or ordering prints.


Mexico's World Heritage Sites - Images by John Mitchell

Reforesting Chichen Itza

It appears that even the ancient Maya ruins at Chichen Itza are feeling the effects of global warming. The heating of the Earth’s atmosphere has reportedly changed the rain patterns and lengthened the dry season at Chichen Itza. Resulting drought, along with lightning storms and hurricanes, has taken a heavy toll on the sprawling archaeological site’s trees and other natural vegetation.

In response to this loss of greenery, Mexico’s National Institute of Anthropology (INAH) has reforested vulnerable areas of Chichen Itza with 3000 trees indigenous to the Yucatan. Included among the species are mahogany, cedar, flamboyant, plus other trees and bushes traditionally used by the Maya for food, construction, and the making of handicrafts. An additional 1000 trees will be planted in 2010, and seeds are being conserved to eventually stock greenhouses with saplings. Grass in heavily trafficked areas of Chichen Itza is also being regenerated.

Mysterious Xochicalco, Mexico

The highway running south from Cuernavaca snakes past endless sugarcane fields, roadside stands piled high with freshly cut roses, and towns with tongue-twisting names that hark back to pre-Hispanic times. Before long, the ancient ruins of Xochicalco come into view, perched like a fortress high on a hill overlooking lush valleys and shimmering lakes.

Xochicalco – whose name means “Place of the House of Flowers” – flourished between 700 and 900 A.D. It was once one of the most important cities in Mesoamerica and home to as many as 15,000 people. During the 20th century the ruins of this heavily fortified complex were extensively restored, and in 1999 Xochicalco was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, it is the largest and most-visited archaeological site in the state of Morelos.

The city of Xochicalco rose to prominence during the decline of Teotihuacan, whose immense ruins lie to the north of present day Mexico City. This powerful civilization had exerted its influence over most of Mexico for almost a millennium. Teotihuacan’s collapse in the eighth century A.D. has still to be fully explained. Its demise left a power vacuum in Central Mexico that was filled first by Xochicalco and later by the Toltec city of Tula.

Xochicalco’s origins remain something of a mystery. Its buildings bear the marks of several different cultures, including the Olmecs, the Zapotecs, and the Aztecs. However, the city’s architecture and artwork are essentially Mayan, leading archaeologists to believe that Xochicalco was founded by Maya traders from the Gulf Coast of the Yucatan peninsula. The strategic location south of Teotihuacan would have given them access to trade routes radiating out from the Valley of Mexico.

An excellent on-site museum that opened at Xochicalco in 1995 gives an idea of who the Xochicalcans were and how they lived. The building was designed according to the principles of environmental sustainability, and it is almost totally self-sufficient. Solar panels and batteries supply electricity. Rain water is collected and recycled, and ventilation is taken care of by an innovative thermal rotation system.

The pale green museum complex sprawls on a rise just east of the ruins. Upon entering the building, you come face-to-face with a wide glass window offering a panoramic view of Xochicalco’s skyline. You then make your way past a scale model of the archaeological site and down a corridor lined with exquisite sculptures to the museum’s six galleries clustered beehive-like at the far end of the building.



On display in the galleries are stone statues, ceramics, and ornaments related to various aspects of ancient Xochicalco’s history and its inhabitants’ way of life. A signature sculpture representing the room’s main theme occupies the entranceway to each gallery. Soft natural light issuing from prism-shaped skylights bathes the artifacts, which are accompanied by explanations and diagrams.

From the site’s main parking area, a trail winds uphill to Xochicalco’s main plaza. Here stands the most beautiful and enigmatic of Xochicalco’s monuments, the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent. Bas-reliefs carved in the Mayan style adorn the squat pyramid’s four sides. Along the structure’s sloping base is a huge undulating feathered serpent. In one of the serpent’s coils sits a Maya ruler or priest wearing an elaborate plumed headdress. Archaeologists feel that this dignitary may have been connected in some way with the god Quetzalcoatl, who was much revered throughout pre-Columbian Mexico.

Above the serpent stretches a series of panels depicting seated men. It was long thought that these figures were astronomers from throughout Mexico who had met at Xochicalco to make calendar adjustments. Archaeologists now speculate that the men actually represent towns subjugated by Xochicalco. Eagles, jaguars, and warriors carrying shields and spears decorate the pyramid’s topmost level, suggesting that the Xochicalcans were more than just peaceful star-watchers.

It is possible to spend several hours exploring Xochicalco’s plazas and densely packed temples, many of which are festooned with Mayan glyphs and carvings. There are also two I-shaped ballcourts like those found on the Yucatan peninsula. Here the Xochicalcans played the sacred “ballgame” that was popular throughout Mexico and northern Central America. Experts think that both the Toltecs and the Aztecs used Xochicalco’s Mayan-style ballcourts as models for the ones they later built in their cities.



Not to be missed is the unusual underground solar observatory sequestered inside one of many caves peppering hillsides found on the site’s northwestern edges. A guard opens the iron gate protecting the cave’s entrance and takes small groups of visitors along an eerie tunnel with painted stucco walls. At the end of the dimly lit passage is a small chamber with a crude altar and light streaming in through a hole in the ceiling.

The light travels down a narrow shaft leading from the surface. When the sun is at its zenith, a beam of sunlight bursts through the shaft at high noon. This event, which happens twice a year, must have been significant for the Xochicalcans. At any time of the year, when you put your hand in the light, the shadow cast on the chamber’s floor appears to show finger bones like an x-ray. While this peculiar effect probably has a simple scientific explanation, it adds another layer of intrigue to these already mysterious ruins.

GETTING THERE: Xochicalco can easily be visited on day trips from Mexico City or Cuernavaca. The Xochicalco archaeological site and museum are open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. The ticket booth closes at 5 p.m. Admission is about US$4.00, which includes entrance to both the ruins and the on-site museum.

Below is a slide-show of some of my Xochicalco photos. Move the cursor over the screen to view the captions. Click on individual  images to see larger versions and for information about ordering prints or downloading files for personal, editorial or commercial use.


Xochicalco, Mexico - Images by John Mitchell

Exploring Ancient Acapulco, Mexico

With its curving bay ringed with ritzy hotels and thumping nightclubs, Acapulco looks and sounds like a city that lives entirely for the moment. But this hedonistic Mexican resort is full of surprises. One of the biggest revelations for many visitors is that Acapulco has roots that go back thousands of years.

Little is known about the indigenous peoples who settled in what is now Acapulco, but they left behind a remarkable series of petroglyphs (rock carvings) on the slopes of a hill overlooking Acapulco Bay. These treasures have been preserved in the Palma Sola Archaeological Site in El Veladero Ecological Park about four miles north of downtown.

To begin exploring ancient Acapulco, all you need do is hail a taxi and ask the driver to take you to Palma Sola. After a dizzying climb through steep, circuitous streets, you’ll arrive in a quiet neighborhood with simple houses, vegetable gardens, and roaming pigs and chickens. The taxi driver will let you off in front of a visitors' center. From here, a set of natural stone steps leads through scrubby vegetation to the rock carvings. Eighteen boulders etched with carvings dating back to 750-800 B.C. are scattered throughout the 3.8 hectare (about 9.5 acres) site.

Shade is scare, and at 400 meters (about 1200 feet) above sea level the air is hot and dry, so it's a good idea to walk slowly and drink plenty of bottled water. Chances are that you will have the entire site to yourself as you follow the well-maintained paths that wind from boulder to boulder. Interpretive signs in both Spanish and English explain the significance of each set of petroglyphs and provide background information about the area's first inhabitants. Panoramic views of sprawling Acapulco and of the blue Pacific Ocean unfold along the way.



Acapulco’s early inhabitants considered this hillside a sacred place and used it for religious and agricultural ceremonies, as well as for making astronomical observations. Several of the petroglyphs – which have been outlined in white to make them easier to see – show shamans and other participants involved in religious rites. Some of the figures are childlike, consisting of little more than circles and squiggly lines, while others are more sophisticated, revealing facial expressions and incorporating simple geometric designs. Archaeologists believe that these carvings describe significant events in the history, mythology and culture of Acapulco’s ancient citizens.

At the end of the trail, you will find Palma Sola’s most important sculpture nestled inside a shallow cave. Petroglyphs covering this oblong boulder depict what is thought to be an ancestral creation myth. A man and a woman, reminiscent of Adam and Eve, stand beside a crowd of human-like figures and animals. While the exact meaning of this scene is unclear, the carvings exude a magical aura, especially when the cave walls turn golden in the rays of the late afternoon sun.

Not as ancient as Palma Sola but well-worth visiting is Fuerte de Santiago (Santiago Fort) perched atop a hill in the old part of Acapulco. Here you can get an idea of the role Acapulco played during Mexico's colonial days. Hernan Cortes, the Spaniard who led the conquest of Mexico in 1519, chose Acapulco to be his shipbuilding headquarters, and numerous expeditions to the South Seas set sail from Acapulco during the 16th century.



Spanish Conquistadors built Santiago Fort in 1616 to protect their galleons from marauding English and Dutch pirates. Ships from Manila in the Philippines regularly docked at Acapulco, making it the most important Spanish port on Mexico's Pacific coast. Well into the 19th century, Acapulco hosted a flourishing trade fair, where goods from Mexico, Peru, and Spain were exchanged for products from the Far East.

An earthquake destroyed much of Santiago Fort in 1776, but it was rebuilt several years later. Shaped like a five-pointed star and surrounded by a dry moat, the fortress has been completely restored and now houses the Museo Historico de Acapulco, a museum chronicling Acapulco's history.

You can wander through converted military quarters containing weapons, seafaring paraphernalia, along with Chinese porcelain, elegant furniture, textiles and other artifacts from Asia. There are also interactive videos (in both Spanish and English) highlighting various aspects of Acapulco's history, plus a colonial-era chapel and a kitchen with traditional fixtures and utensils. On the fort's upper level, you’ll find rows of rusty cannon still keeping watch over Acapulco Bay.

GETTING THERE: The easiest way to visit Palma Sola is by taxi, but you can also get there by public bus. The archaeological site is open daily from 9 am until 5 pm. Admission is about US$2.00. El Fuerte de San Diego (Fort San Diego) overlooks Avenida Costera Miguel Aleman a few blocks east of the Zocalo in old Acapulco. Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday from 9:30 until 6:30 pm. Admission is about US$4.00.

Move the cursor over the slide-show below to view captions. Click on photos to see larger views and for information about ordering prints or leasing for personal or editorial use.


Acapulco - Images by John Mitchell

A Guidebook for Mexico Archaeology Addicts

I confess that I’m a ruins junkie. I just can’t seem to get enough of exploring ancient Mayan temples and climbing Aztec pyramids. Year after year, the mystery and stark beauty of Mexico’s pre-Hispanic ruins keep me coming back for more.

Over the decades, I’ve accumulated a large stash of archaeology guidebooks to feed my habit. But the one I always reach for first is Archaeological Mexico: A Traveler's Guide to Ancient Cities and Sacred Sitesby Andrew Coe. The son of two well-known anthropologists, Andrew Coe grew up visiting Mexican archaeological sites, and his enthusiasm for them comes through on every page.

Coe provides historical and touring information about popular sites such as Chichen Itza, Teotihuacan, and Monte Alban, along with dozens of less-visited ruins throughout Mexico. However, what is really outstanding about this book is how Coe examines the archaeological record and attempts to cut through questionable myths that have grown up around many of Mexico's pre-Columbian civilizations.

Each chapter of the book highlights a different geographical region, and Coe ranks archaeological sites by assigning them different numbers of trowels. For example, Four Trowels indicate “a world-class site, a must for every visitor,” and One Trowel denotes a site for the "indefatigable archaeological tourist." Coe also includes useful maps and sidebars on special topics relating to Mexican archaeology.

Unfortunately, the latest version (2nd edition, 2001) of this indispensable guide can now be a bit difficult to track down, and some of the practical information is out-of-date. Needless to say, I keep praying to the gods that Avalon Travel Publishing will provide me with a new fix in the form of an updated and expanded edition.

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Ancient Cities of Mexico - Images by John Mitchell

No Light Show for Teotihuacan

Mexico's National Institute of Archaeology and History (INAH) has decided to go along with recommendations made recently by the UNESCO World Heritage Committee and suspend plans for a light and sound show at the pre-Hispanic ruins of Teotihuacan near Mexico City. Numerous Mexican preservationists and archaeologists were also against the show, which was to be called "The Radiance of Teotihuacan."

The UNESCO committee criticized the absence of a proper management plan and claimed that the project has caused damage to surfaces of the archaeological site's 2000-year-old pyramids, so the lighting and sound systems have been removed. However, INAH says that it has not totally given up on the idea of lighting up Teotihuacan -- which became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 -- to attract more tourists and help bolster the local economy.

Personally, I've never been a big fan of light and sound shows. I often find them to be somewhat garish and over-dramatic. Perhaps it would be a better idea to let visitors into Teotihuacan at night so that they can see its pyramids as the ancients did -- by the light of the stars and the silvery moon.

GETTING THERE: Teotihuacan is located about 48 kilometers (30 miles) north of Mexico City. Buses leave every 15 minutes from Mexico City's Terminal Norte. The trip takes about one hour. Last I heard, the archaeological site is open daily from 7am until 6pm and the admission is about US$4.00 (more if you want to use a video camera). The ruins can get very crowded on weekends. Best to visit on a weekday. Take a hat and expect to do a lot of walking.

Teotihuacan Exhibition in Mexico City

At its peak in around 500 A.D., Teotihuacan was home to between 100,000 and 200,000 people, making it the largest and most influential urban state in Mesoamerica. Teotihuacan's wide avenues lined with temples and ceremonial platforms stretched some five kilometres through the sun-baked Valley of Mexico, and its massive stone pyramids rivaled those of ancient Egypt. This immense city mysteriously fell into sudden decline during the eighth century and was eventually sacked and burned by looters.

Fortunately, many of the exquisite objects created by Teotihuacan's artisans have survived. Over 400 of these precious artifacts -- including masks, sculptures, obsidian knives, braziers, jewelry, ceramics, and mural fragments -- are currently on display at the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City's Chapultepec Park. This temporary exhibit, which is entitled "Teotihuacan City of Gods," will run until August 16, 2009. Admission is free and the opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm.

For more information, visit the exhibition's Website.

YouTube Features Mexico's Cultural Treasures

YouTube fans will be pleased to know that Mexico's National Institute of Archaeology and History (INAH) has established a channel on the world's favourite video-sharing website. Called INAHTV, the channel currently offers over 100 videos highlighting some of Mexico's most important archaeological zones, museums, historical sites, traditional arts and festivals, as well as other cultural treasures. The commentaries are all in Spanish; but even if you don't understand the language, these expertly produced videos are worth checking out for their visual impact and variety.

Google to Highlight Mexico's Cultural Heritage

Search engine giant Google and INAH, the Mexican National Institute of Anthropology and History, have reportedly teamed up to help revive Mexico’s flagging tourism industry.

Google has agreed to help showcase Mexico’s cultural heritage by highlighting the country’s archaeological sites, museums and historical monuments using photographs and videos supplied by INAH. Google Maps will also be providing guided tours to various cultural destinations.

UNESCO Pre-Hispanic Astronomy Database

It's no secret that Mexico's pre-Hispanic civilizations were accomplished stargazers. The ancient Maya, for instance, accurately charted the movements of the moon and Venus, plus they could predict eclipses and other celestial events. And then there is the famous Aztec Calendar or Sun Stone, a huge and incredibly complex circular calendar that is thought to have originated with the Olmecs, the mother of all the ancient Mexican cultures.

As part of the International Year of Astronomy (2009) celebrations, UNESCO and the Mexican National Institute of History and Anthropology (INAH) will be compiling a database of pre-Hispanic archaeological zones that have astronomical significance. The list will include well known sites such as Chichen Itza, Uxmal, Palenque, and Monte Alban, as well as many lesser known locales. Paintings and sculptures will also be added to the database.

For more information, visit the INAH website.

Cacaxtla Reopens

The archaeological site of Cacaxtla in the Mexican state of Tlaxcala was forced to close last year after a hail storm severely damaged the main building housing its famous pre-Hispanic murals, which are some of the best preserved in Mexico. After extensive repairs and construction, the site is once again open to the public. The National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) has posted an announcement about Cacaxtla's reopening on their website.

Cacaxtla Archaeological Site is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 8:00 to 17:30. The admission is $46 MXP or about US$4.50.