Mundo Maya 2012 Celebrations

The ancient Maya viewed time as cyclical, and on December 21, 2012, the Maya Long Count calendar will reset itself to zero like a cosmic odometer, thus completing a cycle of 5,125 years. This portentous date may or may not herald a new age of enlightenment for mankind or signal the end of the world as various self-proclaimed prophets and doomsayers predict. But one thing is certain: there are going to be celebrations of all things Maya held throughout 2012 in the region known as the Mundo Maya.

To help travelers plan for these diverse events, Avalon Travel has just released MOON MAYA 2012: A Guide to Celebrations in Mexico, Guatemala, Belize & Honduras. The guide's author Joshua Berman manages to pack an impressive amount of information into this slim volume's 115 pages. There are chapters devoted to all four countries comprising the Mundo Maya. Included are descriptions of Maya archaeological sites, maps and directions, plus sections on 2012 tours, community tourism, and hotel packages. Each of these chapters begins with a first-person narrative -- something seldom found in today's guidebooks -- based on Joshua Berman's extensive travels in the region.

Sprinkled throughout the guide are interviews with archaeologists, authors, and other experts on the Maya. A concluding chapter supplies background on history and the Maya Long Count, as well as lists of relevant books, websites and films. There are even glossaries of words and common expressions in Yucatec and Tzotzil, two of the most widely spoken Maya languages. In short, this innovative and useful guide belongs in the backpack of anyone heading off to experience the Mundo Maya in 2012.

Also check out my post on Ten Places to visit in the Mundo Maya Before December 2012

Ten Places to Visit in the Mundo Maya Before December 2012

On December 21, 2012, the remarkable timekeeping machine that is the Maya Long Count calendar will reset itself to zero, thus marking the end of the current era that began in 3114 BC and heralding the start of a new creation cycle. This auspicious event will no doubt spark interest in all things Maya next year. It should also bring a lot of travelers to the Mundo Maya (Maya World), which encompasses the Mexican state of Chiapas, the Yucatán Peninsula, Guatemala, Belize, and parts of Honduras and El Salvador.

There are so many rewarding places to visit in the Mundo Maya that it's difficult to know where to begin. However, here is a list of ten destinations that I can definitely recommend seeing before the dawning of the new age (or the end of the world as some doomsayers predict).

Please click on the photos to view captions and larger versions.

Palenque, Chiapas, Mexico

Sequestered in the jungle of southern Mexico, Palenque is considered by many to be the most beautiful of the ancient Maya cities.



Chichén Itzá, Yucatán, Mexico

Chichén Itzá, the grandest archaeological site on the Yucatán Peninsula, has been named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.



Mérida, Yucatán, Mexico

The handsome Spanish colonial city of Mérida, capital of the state of Yucatán, remains one of the most intriguing and culturally rich cities in the Mundo Maya.



Cobá, Quintana Roo, Mexico

Weathered monuments and a jungle setting make Cobá one of the most atmospheric archaelogical sites in the Mundo Maya.



Tikal, Guatemala

The grandeur of Tikal's towering temples is unmatched in the Mundo Maya.



Chichicastenango, Guatemala

The misty mountain town of Chichicastenango is home to the largest indigenous market in the Mundo Maya.




Antigua, Guatemala

With its backdrop of towering volcanoes and handsome Spanish colonial architecture, Antigua is arguably the most alluring town in the Mundo Maya.



Lake Atitlán, Guatemala

Mesmerizing Lago de Atitlán is said to be the deepest lake in Central America. British writer Aldous Huxley called Atitlán "the most beautiful lake in the world."



Copán, Honduras

The ancient Maya city of Copán in Western Honduras has been dubbed the "Athens of the New World" because of its magnificent sculptures.



Lamanai, Belize

A boat trip up the New River in Northern Belize to the isolated Maya ruins of Lamanai is a true jungle adventure.



Also check out my review of the new MOON MAYA 2012: A Guide to Celebrations in Mexico, Guatemala, Belize & Honduras

Spanish Colonial Forts

When I was a child, I was always building forts -- snow forts, sand forts, tree forts, cardboard-box forts, you name it. I don’ know what this obsession stemmed from. Perhaps it had something to do with wanting to feel safe. Or maybe I had just seen too many pirate movies and Westerns. Whatever the reason, my love of forts followed me into adulthood, and it persists to this day. 

Not surprisingly, during my travels in Latin America, I have sought out and photographed forts of all kinds. The Spanish built dozens of them along the coasts of Mexico and Central America, as well as in the Caribbean. These imposing structures helped protect Spain’s colonies in the New World from foreign navies and raids by the likes of English and Dutch pirates. 

Below is a slide-show of forts in Latin America that I have explored. Each has a distinct personality. Some like the San Juan de Ulua fortress in Veracruz, Mexico, are forbidding and dungeon-like. Others are airy and even inviting like Acapulco’s Fuerte San Diego, whose sunlit interior has been painted bright yellow. However, all of these historical buildings have something in common: behind their high stone walls surmounted by rusty cannon lie stories begging to be told.

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Spanish Colonial Forts - Images by John Mitchell

Twilight of Panama City's Diablos Rojos

It won't be long before the infamous Diablos Rojos (Red Devils) will start disappearing from the congested streets of Panama City. These brightly -- some would say garishly -- painted recycled American school buses have been Panama City's main form of public transportation for several decades.

To foreign travelers, the Diablos Rojos are a novelty. With their exteriors plastered in figures from Panama's history, religious and folkloric scenes, and even cartoon characters, the buses provide splashes of color and imagination in an otherwise drab urban landscape. But for people who have to commute in them every day, the Diablo Rojos are a curse. They tend to be rolling sardine cans, hellishly hot, and unreliable. These environmentally unfriendly beasts also belch countless tons of noxious fumes into the humid tropical air.



However, the days of the Diablos Rojos (Red Devils) are apparently numbered. Panama City is planning to replace its freelance bus system with a fleet of air-conditioned, state-of-the-art coaches. The new Metro Bus system will be similar to ones found in Mexico City and several other Latin American metropolises. There is also talk of building a metro railway line that will probably be even more effective in reducing Panama City's legendary traffic chaos. For the time being, though, visitors to Panama City will still be able to fork over $0.25 and ride the Diablos Rojos to just about anywhere in town. 

Copan Sculpture Museum: A Journey Through the Maya Universe

The ancient Maya city of Copan has been called the "Athens of the New World," mainly because of the remarkable stone sculptures that define these famous ruins in western Honduras. In order to preserve Copan's artistic treasures from the ravages of time, many sculptures have been replaced with on-site replicas and the originals moved to the spacious Copan Sculpture Museum next to the archaeological zone.

Visitors enter the partially buried museum through the toothy jaws of a Maya Earth monster and then proceed along a twisting tunnel that represents the path to the Maya underworld. Once inside the museum's vast atrium, they are confronted by a full-scale replica of Rosalila (Rose-Lilac), an impressive 1400-year-old temple that was discovered in 1989 beneath one of Copan's main structures.

Natural light from a huge opening in the museum's roof washes over Rosalila, bringing to life colorful stucco friezes depicting sacred ears of corn, birds, and two-headed monsters. Surrounding the two-story temple are hundreds of the finest stone carvings in the Maya world. They have been arranged to mirror Maya cosmology, which divided the universe into three levels: the underworld, the surface world, and the heavens.



Underworld denizens such as giant killer bats and wide-eyed demons populate the museum's lower floor, while heavenly beings and likenesses of Copan's nobles decked out in finery can be found on the upper level. Sections of intricately carved building facades are also on display, and the main gallery's ceiling has been decorated with Maya astronomical glyphs representing stars and planets.

Below is a slide-show of photos that I have taken on three visits (1996, 2006, and  2010) to the Copan Sculpture Museum. Move the cursor over the screen to read captions. Click on the images to see larger views and for information about ordering prints or leasing photos for personal or editorial use.


Copan Sculpture Museum - Images by John Mitchell

Lanquin and Candelaria Caves: Guatemala Underground

Caves aren't usually among the first things that come to mind when you think of Guatemala. This intriguing Central American country is more famous for its colorful Maya handicrafts, handsome Spanish colonial towns, and mysterious pre-Hispanic ruins. However, northern Guatemala is dotted with limestone caverns that are sacred places for the contemporary Maya, whose ancestors saw caves as entrances to Xibalba, a mythical underworld populated by the Lords of Death and their assistants.

Two of the best known series of caves are Lanquin Caves and Candelaria Caves in the department of Alta Verapaz, a mountainous region still covered in patches of primary cloud forest. The Lanquin Caves are located about 65 kilometers (40 miles) east of the city of Cobán. For most of the way, the road to Lanquin is paved. However, the last part of the drive descends into a deep valley via a precipitous dirt road that could easily have been built by the Lords of Death.



A fast-flowing, emerald green river flows by the mouth of the cave's main entrance, whose small size belies the labyrinth that awaits within. Dimly lit and very slippery walkways wind  through endless dank chambers filled with stalactites and other eerie formations, many of which have been given fanciful names by the locals. Lanquin is not a place for the claustrophobic, and it is not spectacular as caves go. But it does give visitors a good introduction to Guatemala's underground world.

Much more dramatic are the Candelaria Caves, which lie about two hours north of Cobán near the town of Chisec. Candelaria's main cavern is almost 60 metres (200 feet) high and 200 metres (650 feet) long, and it is illuminated by natural light streaming through soaring fissures draped with greenery. There is a cathedral-like feeling of peace and magic here. It's no wonder that the Maya continue to revere this cave and use it for religious rituals.

The Lanquin Caves are open daily from 8am until 5pm. Admission for adults is 30 Guatemalan Quetzales (about US$3.75).

Grutas de Candelaria (Candelaria Caves) are located in a national park by the same name. The Candelaria complex is administered by local Q'eqchi Maya groups as part of an ecotourism project. Knowledgeable Maya guides take visitors on tours of the caves and on tubing trips (floating on rubber inner tubes) along the Candelaria River, which flows through the caverns. In addition, there is a rustic ecolodge that also functions as a hotel school.

Below is a slide-show with some of my photos from a recent trip to Alta Verapaz. Move the cursor over the screen to view captions. Click on individual images for information about ordering prints or leasing photos for personal, editorial, or commercial use.


Alta Verapaz, Guatemala - Images by John Mitchell

Tikal, Guatemala: Impressive as Ever

There can be no doubt that the Maya ruins of Tikal in northern Guatemala rank among the most impressive archaeological sites on the planet. I revisited Tikal in October and was once again awed by its grand scale and towering pyramids, which are arguably the most dramatic in the Maya world.

I spent several hours wandering along jungle trails and exploring hidden plazas surrounded by maze-like temple complexes, mossy pyramids, and abandoned ceremonial platforms. But the high point (literally) of my visit was the climb up the steep wooden staircase that clings to the side of 65-meter-high Temple IV, the tallest pyramid at Tikal and the second tallest built by Maya.

The panoramic view from the top of Temple IV is inspirational, and it is probably much the same as the one enjoyed by ancient Maya priests and astronomers whose lofty domain this once was. In the distance, Temples I and II stand like massive stone sentinels, poking their intricately carved roof combs through a dense forest canopy that unfurls like a green carpet for as far as the eye can see.

Below is a slide-show of my photos of Tikal and the nearby town of Flores located on an island in Lake Peten Itza. Move the cursor over the screen to view the captions. Click on individual  photos to see larger versions and for information about ordering prints or downloading files for personal, editorial or commercial use.


Tikal and Flores, Guatemala - Images by John Mitchell

Back to Guatemala: Central America Travel Market 2010

Last month (October) I was lucky enough to attend the Central America Travel Market or CATM 2010 in the Spanish colonial city of Antigua, Guatemala. Every year this important tourism fair is hosted by a different Central American nation. This year it was Guatemala's turn. The travel market was held on the grounds of the lovely Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, a restored 17th-century Dominican monastery, and Antigua's handsome colonial architecture and lively atmosphere provided a perfect backdrop for the numerous cultural events that were included in the program.

I hadn't been to Guatemala for several years, and it was wonderful to be back in this fascinating and colorful country. My recent visit has inspired me to put together a short slide-show of images from some of my favorite places in Guatemala. I've posted the result below.

Move the cursor over the screen to view captions. Click on individual  photos to see larger versions and for information about ordering prints or downloading files for personal, editorial or commercial use.


Guatemala Favorite Places - Images by John Mitchell

Gracias, Lempira, Honduras: Small Town with a Big Past and a Bright Future

The winding road from Santa Rosa de Copán to Gracias in Western Honduras dips and climbs like a roller coaster through a wild landscape of deep valleys, pine-clad mountains and rocky streams. It's no wonder that when Spanish conquistadors exploring this region during the early 1500's finally happened upon a stretch of flat land, they named the community that they founded there "Gracias a Dios" (Thank God).

Now known simply as Gracias, this sleepy town may not look very important today, but at one time it was the Spanish capital of all Central America. In 1544, Gracias was chosen to be the home of the Spanish Empire’s governing council, the Audiencia de los Confines. Gracias served as an administrative center until 1548, when the Audencia packed up and moved to Antigua, Guatemala.

Not surprisingly, given its isolated location, Gracias fell into a long period of anonymity. Recently, however, Gracias' quiet charms have been rediscovered by adventurous travelers, and the town is being put back on the map as a budding tourist destination and convenient base for exploring nearby Lenca Indian villages and Celaque National Park.

Gracias' compact historical center fans out from a tree-shaded main square with a tiny central bandstand that has been converted into a pleasant two-storey cafe. Restored colonial buildings line the town's narrow streets, and there are several old churches worth seeking out. The most attractive is the 17th century Iglesia La Merced, which has an ornate baroque-style facade with spiral columns and niches containing religious statues. Next to the white and yellow Iglesia San Marcos on the main square stands the building that was once home to the Spanish Audencia. A pair of sculpted lions with gruff, human-like faces keep watch over its wide stone entrance. Across the street is the Casa Galeano, a remodeled colonial mansion that now houses a very good regional museum and a small botanical garden.

Perched above Gracias is the Fuerte de San Cristóbal, a renovated Spanish fort that provides some inspiring views of the surrounding mountains. Also popular with both locals and visitors are two sets of natural thermal pools on the outskirts of town. The more upscale of these hot springs facilities is the Termas del Rio, which is operated by the Posada de Don Juan, a comfortable new hotel that has opened in downtown Gracias.

Gracias is also gateway to what has become known as La Ruta Lenca or Lenca Route, a series of picturesque villages inhabited by Lenca Indians, the largest indigenous group in Honduras. The Lenca are best known for their distinctive earthenware pottery that is sold in markets throughout the country.



The Lenca village easiest to reach from Gracias is La Campa located about 16 kilometers (10 miles) away on a paved road. At the entrance to La Campa sits an interpretation center named La Escuelona. This rambling colonial-era complex has galleries with Lenca pottery and historical exhibits as well as showrooms where visitors can buy locally made plates, chimes, whistles and other ceramic creations. Several other pottery stores and workshops lie scattered around town, including the well-stocked home of Doña Desideria Pérez, which has a traditional wood-fired Lenca pottery oven in the backyard.

Uunpaved streets lead downhill past humble dwellings with tile roofs to La Campa's main claim to fame, the Iglesia de San Matías. This three-hundred-year-old church was restored in 1938. However, its brightly colored facade decorated with floral motifs and fluttering angels looks as if it has just been given a fresh coat of paint in hopes that more travelers will soon be coming to admire it.

Move the cursor over the screen of the slide-show below to read captions. Click on individual images to see larger versions and for information about ordering prints or leasing photos for personal or commercial and editorial use.


Gracias and La Campa, Honduras - Images by John Mitchell

Lancetilla Botanical Garden: Honduras' Green Treasure

On a recent trip to Central America, I had the opportunity to visit the Lancetilla Botanical Garden on the verdant Caribbean coast of Honduras. This 1680-hectare (4151-acre) green space and research center harbors over 1200 plant species and is said to be the second largest tropical botanical garden in the world.

Lancetilla, which gets its name from a palm tree native to Honduras, was established in 1926 by American botanist Doctor William Popenoe and his wife Dorothy. An employee of the United Fruit Company, William Popenoe set out to create experimental plantations for the study of economically important fruits and other plants. His garden has grown from modest beginnings to include species from tropical regions around the globe.

At the heart of Lancetilla lies the Biotic Reserve with 1281 hectares of protected Honduran primary and secondary humid forest. There are also 322 hectares of experimental plantations, plus the Wilson Popenoe Arboretum, which conserves tropical species from four continents. In addition, Lancetilla is home to many species of animals, including troops of endangered howler, spider, and white-faced capuchin monkeys. Some 250 species of birds have been spotted in the garden.

Our Honduran guide Salvador led our small group through the park-like Arboretum, the garden's most-visited area. On either side of meandering natural stone paths grew plants of all kinds, each identified with a sign giving both its scientific and Spanish names.



Along the way, Salvador pointed out medicinal, ornamental, and even poisonous species such as strychnine. We stopped to examine the infamous coca plant from which cocaine is made, plus we admired several national trees of Central American countries, including a giant Guanacaste tree from Costa Rica and the Honduras Pine. Salvador made sure to show us an ackee tree, the fruit of which is poisonous if improperly prepared. This tree is infamous at Lancetilla because Dorothy Popenoe, whose grave is in the garden, died in 1932 after eating an unripe ackee fruit.

Lancetilla Garden has a Visitors Center housing plant-related exhibits (signage in Spanish only) and a cafeteria. The center sells a trail map of the garden for 10 Lempiras (about US$0.50). Admission to the garden is 115 Lempiras (about US$6.00) and opening hours are 7am to 4pm daily. Guide services are available as well as birding tours. Air-conditioned cabins can be rented for overnight stays. Bring mosquito repellent, bottled water, and protection from the sun. Lancetilla Botanical Garden and Research Center is located about 5 kilometers (about 3 miles) southwest of the beach resort town of Tela.

Move the cursor over the screen of the slide-show below to read captions. Click on individual images to see larger versions and for information about ordering prints or leasing photos for personal, editorial, or commercial use.


Lancetilla Botanical Garden, Honduras - Images by John Mitchell

Back to El Salvador

When I first visited El Salvador in 1996, this beleaguered Central American nation was still numb from its long and brutal civil war that had ended only four years earlier. There was very little in the way of tourism infrastructure, and I bumped into few fellow travelers.

However, on a return visit in October 2008, I found that much had changed. The capital city, San Salvador, while as chaotic as I remember it to be, seemed much more upbeat. New restaurants, museums and art galleries had opened; historic buildings in the city center had been spruced up; and there were noticeably more foreign visitors.

As I ventured beyond the city, I saw the familiar signs of poverty, but I also rediscovered some of what I had first liked about this welcoming country: rolling green countryside, misty volcanoes, slumbering Spanish colonial towns, and shy barefoot children playing by the side of the road. These sights also reinforced my original impression that for anyone looking for an authentic travel experience without all the trappings of mass tourism, El Salvador is an ideal place to explore.

For more information, visit El Salvador's Ministry of Tourism website. You can also click on the two links below to read a newspaper travel article that I wrote about San Salvador.

San Salvador Page 1

San Salvador Page 2

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El Salvador - Images by John Mitchell

Big Corn Island, Nicaragua

It's always refreshing to find a tropical hideaway that hasn't been overrun by mass tourism. In October of this year, I was fortunate enough to visit just such a place: Big Corn Island, an idyllic patch of white sand and greenery languishing some 80 kilometers off Nicaragua's Caribbean coast. Most of Big Corn Island's black inhabitants are of Jamaican descent and speak English. The island reminded me of the Cayes in Belize, but it is less built up and not nearly as expensive.

It would be difficult to envision a spot more peaceful than Big Corn Island. Nonetheless there are problems in paradise. Colombian drug runners sometimes use the island as a stopover. The resulting cocaine trade has led to reports of thefts and assaults. However, the island's untrammeled beaches and easygoing ways more than make up for these shortcomings. There are plenty of affordable hotels and restaurants on Big Corn Island, and as yet there is only one luxury resort, Casa Canada. The best news is that locals seem intent on keeping developers at bay, so the chances of Big Corn Island becoming the next Cancun any time soon are remote.

La Costeña airlines has daily flights to Big Corn Island from Managua. Please click on the link below to read a newspaper travel article that I wrote about Big Corn Island.

Big Corn Island

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Big Corn Island, Nicaragua - Images by John Mitchell

Gracious Granada, Nicaragua

According to an old saying, "Granada is Nicaragua; the rest is just mountains." Anyone who has traveled in Nicaragua knows this to be hyperbole. Nonetheless, this handsome Spanish colonial city on the shores of Lake Nicaragua has evolved into the country’s unofficial "tourism capital." In October, I made my third visit to Granada since 1998 and was happy to find that it has not yet become a victim of its own popularity. New hotels and restaurants keep popping up, and the inevitable tour buses have arrived. However, the city retains its tranquil atmosphere, plus strict building laws ensure that all restoration work and new construction adhere to original colonial designs. With its dignified churches, elegant plazas, colourful facades, and ubiquitous horse-drawn carriages, Granada promises to remain one of the most charming and photogenic cities in Latin America.

Click on the two links below to read a travel article that I wrote about Granada.

Granada Page 1

Granada Page 2

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Granada, Nicaragua - Images by John Mitchell

Centro Monseñor Romero in San Salvador, El Salvador

Hidden away on the campus of the University of Central America (UCA) in San Salvador is a poignant reminder of the repression and violence that gripped El Salvador during the 1970's and 1980's. The Centro Monseñor Romero is dedicated to Archbishop Oscar Romero, who was assassinated in 1980 because of his opposition to El Salvador's military dictatorship. This small museum also honours six Jesuit priests plus their maid and her daughter who were all slaughtered at the center by the Salvadoran army in 1989.

A young law student names Mauricio was kind enough to show my around the Centro Monseñor Romero during a recent visit. I was impressed by Mauricio's earnestness and knowledge of events that he couldn't possibly remember. We first examined historic photographs and floor-to-ceiling glass display cases containing memorabilia that included Archbishop Romero's vestments and personal effects, as well as clothing that had belonged to the slain priests. Mauricio then led me to a courtyard, now a tranquil rose garden, where four of the priests' bodies were found.



Finally, Mauricio ushered me into a room with a table holding a pile of photo albums. Mauricio warned me that the pictures were very graphic. He was right. Inside the albums were horrific images of the murder victims. Some of the cadavers had been so badly mutilated that they were no longer recognizable as human beings. Gruesome as the photographs were, I found it encouraging that they were on public display, evidence of how far long-suffering El Salvador has come since its brutal civil war ended in 1992.



The Centro Monseñor Romero is open 8 am to noon and 2 pm to 6 pm, Monday to Friday; and 8am to 11:30am on Saturdays. Admission is free.

Coffee Ecotourism in Nicaragua

Coffee growing and ecotourism seem an unlikely brew, but this is just what two innovative fincas in the highlands of Nicaragua are experimenting with. On a recent visit to Finca Esperanza Verde (which means "Green Hope Farm") and Selva Negra, both situated in misty cloud forest near the city of Matagalpa, I was able to experience firsthand how coffee production can be complemented by sustainable tourism.



These two plantations offer comfortable eco-friendly lodging, home-grown organic food along with birdwatching, hiking, and numerous other outdoor activities. Guests can learn about where their morning cup of organic, shade-grown coffee comes from. They also get to see solar power, waste recycling, and other green technologies at work. Both these fincas have been certified by the Rainforest Alliance, an organization dedicated to conserving biodiversity and building sustainable livelihoods for local people.

Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua

The inflight magazine of air transat recently published my story on Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua, which I visited in late 2006. Please click on the following link to read it online: Nicaragua's Oasis of Peace

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Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua - Images by John Mitchell

Moon's Nicaragua Handbook

A constant companion during my latest trip to Nicaragua was the Moon Handbook Nicaragua (Avalon Travel Publishing, second edition) by Randy Wood and Joshua Berman. This highly recommendable guidebook is thorough and well-researched. Its authors show an impressive knowledge of Nicaragua's history, politics, and culture. They also supply a lot of good information on ecotourism and volunteering opportunities in Nicaragua. The maps are not indexed and consequently somewhat difficult to decipher (a shortcoming of all Moon Handbooks). Otherwise, it's by far the best Nicaragua guide currently available.

Nicaragua Redux

In October, 2006, I revisited Nicaragua after almost a ten-year absence. The presidential election campaigns were in full swing, and former Sandinista guerilla leader Daniel Ortega was predicted to win (which he eventually did). I found that much has changed in this land of revolution, and much remains the same. There are definite signs of economic growth. However, life for most Nicaraguans is still a day-to-day struggle for survival.

Nicaragua’s dramatic volcanic landscapes, vast lakes, handsome Spanish colonial cities, and welcoming people make it one of the most alluring countries in Latin America. Nicaraguans generally embrace increased tourism, seeing it as a way to create jobs and bring needed investment. Please check back for posts about some of the places that I visited in Nicaragua and suggestions for anyone wishing to explore this painfully beautiful and addictive country.

The Lodge at Pico Bonito in Honduras

On my recent trip to Honduras, I was fortunate enough to stay at the The Lodge at Pico Bonito located in the buffer zone of the Parque Nacional Pico Bonito, the largest National Park in Honduras. This luxurious ecolodge opened in 2000 and is now considered to be one of the finest in the world. The lodge’s mission is not only to give its guests a comfortable base for exploring Pico Bonito but also to protect the region’s flora and fauna. Presided over by 8000-foot-high Pico Bonito, the park covers over 264,000 acres of unspoiled tropical jungle and cloud forest that is home to more than 325 species of birds as well as peccaries, tapirs, jaguars, and many other rare and threatened animals.



Highlight of my stay was an early morning bird walk, where we spotted an assortment of exotic birds, including parrots and toucans, followed by a tour of the lodge’s extensive grounds with a local guide. Trails winding through orange and cacao groves took us to a butterfly farm where butterflies are bred and then exported to collectors around the globe. We then spent time in the adjacent Butterfly House, a spacious netted enclosure filled with fluttering butterflies. Next stop was the Serpentarium, which houses a variety snakes – both harmless and venomous – found in Honduras. We also visited an organic vegetable garden that supplies fresh produce for the lodge’s gourmet restaurant. Our excursion ended with a blissful swim in a crystal-clear mountain stream only a short hike away.

For more information about The Lodge at Pico Bonito, call toll free 1-888-428-0221 or visit their Website.

Macaw Mountain Bird Park near Copan, Honduras (Updated January 2011)

One of the most inspiring places that I visited during my recent trip to Honduras was the Macaw Mountain Bird Park and Nature Reserve located on the outskirts of Copan Ruinas, not far from the famous Maya ruins of Copan. This forested reserve is home to 110 exotic Honduran birds, including macaws, parrots, and toucans that have been rescued from captivity. A true labour of love, the bird park was created by American biologist and businessman Lloyd Davidson. He operated a bird park on the island of Roatan for over four years before purchasing a ten-acre patch of old growth forest near Copan Ruinas. After two and a half years of planning and building, Davidson and his business partner chartered a plane and moved the birds to their new home in 2003.



In addition to large flight aviaries with ample space for the colourful birds to fly around in, the park has nature trails, elevated platforms for viewing wild birds, and open encounter areas where visitors can interact with uncaged macaws and parrots. The park’s gift shop carries souvenirs and packages of “bird friendly” coffee from Finca Miramundo, a highland coffee farm partly owned by Davidson. Proceeds from the shop go towards the reserve’s upkeep.

The Macaw Mountain Bird Park and Nature Reserve is located about 2.5 km north of Copan Ruinas, a short taxi ride from the main square. The bird park is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is US$10, which includes a tour with an English-speaking guide. The entrance ticket is good for three days.

2011 UPDATE

Lloyd Davidson, the owner of the Macaw Mountain Bird Park, told me on a visit in October 2010 that he now has between 160-170 birds and is no longer emphasizing breeding. Rather he is organizing moves to release more endangered Scarlet Macaws (the national bird of Honduras) into the Copan Valley. He will also be working with the World Parrot Trust on a ten-year plan to repopulate the wild with Scarlet Macaws, whose populations are seriously low due mainly to habitat destruction and illegal poaching of chicks for the tropical bird pet trade.