MEXICAN KALEIDOSCOPE: AN INTERVIEW WITH AUTHOR TONY BURTON

I recently had a chat with geographer and author Tony Burton about his latest book Mexican Kaleidoscope: myths, mysteries, and mystique (Sombrero Books, 2016, 165 pages), a wide-ranging collection of  informative and often surprising vignettes gathered from Mexico's rich history and culture. Tony's unique book brings to light many little-known facts about this fascinating country and its people. A copy belongs on the bookshelf of every serious Mexicophile. 




JM: You have been writing about Mexico for many years, what first got you interested in the country?

Tony: Necessity! I was teaching geography in the Caribbean and the examination syllabus required a study of Mexico. The Mexican chapters in Robert West and John P. Augelli's wonderful book Middle America: Its Lands and Peoples were familiar friends by the time I spent the summer of 1977 touring the southern half of Mexico. Two years later, I returned to teach geography in Mexico City. The complexity of Mexico's geography kept me hooked, which is why I jumped at the opportunity a few years ago to collaborate with Dr. Richard Rhoda to write Geo-Mexico, the Geography and Dynamics of Modern Mexico. Amazingly, that book (published to coincide with Mexico's bicentenary celebrations in 2010) turned out to be the first ever English-language, college-level book devoted to Mexico's geography. (For more details, see geo-mexico.com)

JM: What prompted you to write Mexican Kaleidoscope?

Tony: I'd been planning to write a book along these lines for a number of years but only got sufficiently organized to carry through on the plan last year! One of my main motivations was that (to the best of my knowledge) no similar book for the general reader had been published in the past forty years. An incredible amount of interesting academic research has been done on Mexico over that time, leading to reevaluations and reinterpretations of many former ideas and beliefs. I wanted to make readers aware of some of these extraordinary developments, which continually refuel my passionate interest in Mexico.

JM: How did you come up with the title?

Tony: The title Mexican Kaleidoscope is a nod to a British writer, Norman Pelham Wright, whose own collection of essays, with the same title, was published in 1948. That book was an eye-opener for me when I first began to get intimately acquainted with Mexico more than forty years ago. The subtitle Myths, Mysteries and Mystique came from a suggestion by one of my regular golfing partners (who had read an early draft of the book) as we played the 11^th hole at Cottonwood Golf Course.

JM: A lot of research must have gone into this book. How long did it take you to write it? What were some of the challenges?

Tony: The research was done sporadically over more than twenty years, in conjunction with other writing projects. The main challenge was that because Mexico is such a fascinating country it was hard to decide what to include and what to omit!

JM: Mexican Kaleidoscope has 30 chapters. Which ones are your favorites? Why?

Tony: That's a great question, but actually I prefer not to answer since I hope readers will find and enjoy their own favorites. What I can say is that each and every chapter has come to mean far more to me than is expressed by mere words on a page. I really hope some of my enthusiasm comes through to readers.

JM: The book is illustrated by Mexican artist Enrique Velázquez. What do you think his drawings add to the text?

Tony: I've known Enrique and his family for many, many years. He has a keen interest in the subject matter and an uncanny ability to portray ideas in just a few lines. I originally envisioned using small, inline drawings to break up the text, much in the manner of old-time illustrators, but his final drawings were far too good for that, so we changed track and gave them the prominence and space they merit.

JM: What do you hope readers will take away from Mexican Kaleidoscope?

Tony: That's a tough question since I think it depends on what readers bring to the process. At the very least I'd like the book to cause readers to stop and think, to be occasionally surprised, and perhaps question things that they may have previously thought or heard about Mexico. As I've written elsewhere, Mexico is not always an easy country to understand but any effort to do so always seems to bring rich reward!

JM: Do you have any other books about Mexico in the works?

Tony: Yes. I'm hoping to complete a companion volume to Mexican Kaleidoscope by the second half of this year. Whereas Mexican Kaleidoscope focuses primarily on history and culture, the next book (title still under wraps) focuses on Mexico’s astonishingly varied natural history (flora and fauna) and its cultural connections. I'm also actively researching material for books about the twentieth century history of the Lake Chapala region, and about the development of that area's literary and artistic community. For that last project, I've begun publishing short profiles of some of the key players at sombrerobooks.com.

JM: How can Mexico Premiere fans order a copy of Mexican Kaleidoscope?

Tony: Both print and Kindle editions of Mexican Kaleidoscope are available via all Amazon sites - amazon.com, amazon.ca, etc. There are also ebook versions for Kobo and other ereaders via iTunes, Barnes & Noble and Smashwords. Readers in the Lake Chapala area can find the book in local stores such as La Nueva Posada, Diane Pearl Collections, Mi México and in Enrique Velázquez's art gallery. I also have a limited number of copies that can be signed and personally dedicated for Mexico Premiere fans if they contact me via sales@sombrerobooks.com

PREVIOUS BOOKS BY TONY BURTON
Western Mexico,  A Traveler's Treasury (4th edition)
Chapala Through the Ages;  an anthology of travellers' tales (2008)
Co-author of Geo-Mexico, the geography and dynamics of modern Mexico

Cancún's New Maya Museum

With its lavish five-star hotels, American-style shopping malls, and raucous nightclubs, Cancún is about the last place you might expect to find a world class archaeology museum. However, that is exactly what has been built in this popular resort city on Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula. 

The Museo Maya de Cancún, which was inaugurated in November 2012, is considered to be the most important project undertaken by Mexico's National Institute of Archaeology and History (INAH) since the construction of Mexico City's Templo Mayor Museum in 1987. The state-of-the-art museum was designed by Mexican architect Alberto Garcia Lascurain, and its construction reportedly cost 15 million dollars. Built to survive Cancún's capricious climate, the 4,400-square-foot structure features innovations such as steel-reinforced windows to resist hurricane winds, latticed concrete walls to ensure air circulation, and elevated exhibition halls to prevent flood damage to the museum's precious collections.



Hundreds of archaeological treasures from throughout the Maya region are on display in three spacious exhibition halls or salas, two permanent ones and another with temporary exhibits on loan from other museums in the area. The first hall that visitors encounter houses artifacts from the state of Quintana Roo (in which Cancún is located), including the 10,000-year-old remains of a woman found in a submerged limestone cave or cenote. The Sala Maya highlights broader aspects of the Mayan world with displays related to subjects such as daily life, architecture, art, and the natural environment. Floor-to-ceiling windows and an external walkway offer panoramic views of surrounding lush vegetation and of Laguna Nichupté, the sprawling tropical lagoon that borders Cancún's luxurious Hotel Zone.



Adjacent to the museum, and reached by a path winding through the forest, is the recently opened San Miguelito archaeological site that dates back some 800 years. Nestled among towering trees are the remains of residential complexes, ceremonial platforms, and altars, as well as a 26-foot-high pyramid. Exploring both the new museum and these ancient Mayan ruins hidden for so long in the jungle promises to be an eye-opening experience for many of the estimated 12 million tourists who arrive every year to enjoy modern Cancún's white sand beaches and hedonistic pleasures.

The Museo de Cancún is located at Km 16 on Kukulkán Boulevard in the Hotel Zone or Zona Hotelera. It is easily reached by public bus or taxi from downtown Cancún. Admission to the museum and archaeological site is 57 Mexican pesos (about $5.00 US). The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. (10 p.m. on Thursday). Get there early enough if you want to see the San Miguilito archaeological site as it closes at 5 p.m.

Mouse over the slideshow below to view captions. Click on individual images for information about ordering prints or leasing for editorial use.


Cancun Mayan Museum and San Miguelito Archaeological Site, Cancun - Images by John Mitchell

Happy Birthday Diego Rivera

If the Mexican artist Diego Rivera were still alive, he would be turning 125 years young today. Born on December 8, 1886, in the Spanish colonial city of Guanajuato, Diego Rivera rose from relatively ordinary beginnings to become the most famous Mexican painter of the 20th century.

Rivera studied art first in Mexico City and then in Europe, where he was influenced by the likes of Picasso and Cézanne. However, his heart remained with the indigenous cultures, history, and landscapes of his homeland, to which he returned in 1921 and where he spent most of his working life.

Diego Rivera was a large man — standing over six feet tall and reportedly weighing in at more than 300 pounds — and his artistic and political visions matched his stature. In his art, Rivera never failed to champion the rights of the exploited and the oppressed peoples of his native Mexico. He is best known for the vast, often politically inspired murals featuring casts of thousands that cover the walls of public buildings in Mexico City and in other locales throughout the country. He also left his mark on edifices in New York City, Detroit and San Francisco.

Politically, Diego Rivera flirted with Communist ideology, and both he and his artist wife Frida Kahlo joined the Mexican Communist Party. Rivera's relationship with fellow Mexican Communists was a stormy one. Nonetheless, he was instrumental in helping the exiled Russian revolutionary Leon Trotsky gain political asylum in Mexico in 1936.

I discovered Diego Rivera's remarkable murals over 25 years ago during my first visit to Mexico City. They made such a deep impression on me that I continue to seek them out whenever I return to the Mexican capital. While Rivera has been criticized for his left-wing political views and idealism — which some claim were naive — his works endure as testaments to his boundless humanity and undeniable artistic genius. He was truly one of a kind.

Move the cursor over the screen of the slideshow below to view captions and locations (Mexico City, Cuernavaca, and Acapulco). Click on individual images to see larger versions and for information about ordering prints or downloading images for personal or editorial use.


Diego Rivera Murals - Images by John Mitchell

2012 Latin America Calendars

I'm putting together 2012 Latin America themed calendars at Lulu.com. Below is a preview of one of the latest ones, Mexican Handicrafts 2012, which features some of my favorite photos of handicrafts from all over Mexico. This calendar includes U.S., Canadian, and Mexican holidays.



More Calendars by John Mitchell

Ten Places to Visit in the Mundo Maya Before December 2012

On December 21, 2012, the remarkable timekeeping machine that is the Maya Long Count calendar will reset itself to zero, thus marking the end of the current era that began in 3114 BC and heralding the start of a new creation cycle. This auspicious event will no doubt spark interest in all things Maya next year. It should also bring a lot of travelers to the Mundo Maya (Maya World), which encompasses the Mexican state of Chiapas, the Yucatán Peninsula, Guatemala, Belize, and parts of Honduras and El Salvador.

There are so many rewarding places to visit in the Mundo Maya that it's difficult to know where to begin. However, here is a list of ten destinations that I can definitely recommend seeing before the dawning of the new age (or the end of the world as some doomsayers predict).

Please click on the photos to view captions and larger versions.

Palenque, Chiapas, Mexico

Sequestered in the jungle of southern Mexico, Palenque is considered by many to be the most beautiful of the ancient Maya cities.



Chichén Itzá, Yucatán, Mexico

Chichén Itzá, the grandest archaeological site on the Yucatán Peninsula, has been named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.



Mérida, Yucatán, Mexico

The handsome Spanish colonial city of Mérida, capital of the state of Yucatán, remains one of the most intriguing and culturally rich cities in the Mundo Maya.



Cobá, Quintana Roo, Mexico

Weathered monuments and a jungle setting make Cobá one of the most atmospheric archaelogical sites in the Mundo Maya.



Tikal, Guatemala

The grandeur of Tikal's towering temples is unmatched in the Mundo Maya.



Chichicastenango, Guatemala

The misty mountain town of Chichicastenango is home to the largest indigenous market in the Mundo Maya.




Antigua, Guatemala

With its backdrop of towering volcanoes and handsome Spanish colonial architecture, Antigua is arguably the most alluring town in the Mundo Maya.



Lake Atitlán, Guatemala

Mesmerizing Lago de Atitlán is said to be the deepest lake in Central America. British writer Aldous Huxley called Atitlán "the most beautiful lake in the world."



Copán, Honduras

The ancient Maya city of Copán in Western Honduras has been dubbed the "Athens of the New World" because of its magnificent sculptures.



Lamanai, Belize

A boat trip up the New River in Northern Belize to the isolated Maya ruins of Lamanai is a true jungle adventure.



Also check out my review of the new MOON MAYA 2012: A Guide to Celebrations in Mexico, Guatemala, Belize & Honduras

Back from the Riviera Maya and Sacred Mayan Journey

As mentioned in my last post, I was invited to attend the annual Sacred Mayan Journey event (May 19-21, 2011) on the Riviera Maya in the Mexican state of Quintana Roo. This event brings back to life an ancient Mayan religious pilgrimage to the island of Cutzamil (modern-day Cozumel) back to life. It involves about 300 men and women volunteers from the Riviera Maya communities of Xcaret, Cozumel and Playa del Carmen who train for months in order to make the grueling 100-kilometer (60-mile) round trip to Cozumel in up to 30 traditional Mayan dugout canoes. The crossing takes at least five hours each way on the rough waters of the Cozumel channel.

This year, the Riviera Maya marked the fifth anniversary of the Sacred Mayan Journey event. The event began at Xcaret with the re-creation of an ancient Mayan market or Kii’wik. Before entering the market, our small group of travel journalists were told to put our pesos and dollars away. Each of us was then given a bag of cacao beans (most other visitors had to pay for theirs), which were used as currency by the Maya in pre-Hispanic times. Once inside the bustling outdoor marketplace, we were immersed in a world of exotic sights, sounds, and smells.

The pungent odor of copal incense wafted through the air, and the local Mayan dialect replaced Spanish as vendors dressed in traditional costumes hawked their wares. Offered for sale in a maze of wooden stalls were honey, seashell jewelry, herbs and spices, fresh produce, plus a host of other earthy delights. Craftspeople were hard at work making baskets and wooden carvings, while others cooked tortillas and roasted cacao beans in huge ceramic bowls. The market was obviously theater. Nonetheless, the atmosphere was upbeat and proceeds from sales went to help local Maya communities.



Leaving the market, we joined the throng heading towards the seaside village of Polé to watch the opening ceremonies. En route, we were purified by clouds of copal incense pouring from chalices held high by dancers clad in white gowns. The path wound through lush forest past a voluptuous effigy of Ixchel surrounded by offerings of flowers, ears of corn, and squash. Soon we arrived at the beach where there was a palpable air of anticipation as the spectators awaited the arrival of warriors with Guerrero Gonzalez, a shipwrecked Spanish sailor who had been captured and enslaved by the Maya.

What followed was a program of traditional music, colorful purification rituals and dances that stretched into the night. Our small group eventually headed back to our comfy hotel, the Hacienda Tres Rios, for a few hours of shuteye before returning to Polé to witness the departure of the boats. At the first light of dawn, we were back at the cove with some 3000 people watching the hardy paddlers climb into their canoes and sail off into the choppy water under a pink-tinged sky. Shamans, along with baritone blasts from conch-shell horns and cheers from the crowd, bid the seafarers farewell. Once at Cutzamil, the oarsmen would present the slave Guerrero Gonzalez and other offerings to Ixchel and then ask the goddess for her blessings, which they would take back to the mainland.

On the following afternoon, we gathered on the beach at Xamanhá, now the resort city of Playa del Carmen, to await the pilgrims’ return. The crowd eagerly scanned the horizon for signs of the canoes. Suddenly they appeared from around a rocky point, accompanied by two Mexican naval vessels. Bravos rang out as the first canoes hit the sandy shore, and a wave of people ran to greet and hug the paddlers.

A closing ceremony ensued with more music, dancing and theater, this time featuring a reborn Guerrero Gonzalez, who had been granted his freedom while on Cutzamil and was about to elope with an alluring Mayan princess. Most moving of all, though, was the presentation of awards to the paddlers, who looked tired and sunburned but were obviously in high spirits. The glowing looks on the participants' faces as they received medals and certificates spoke of their sense of accomplishment and camaraderie that will no doubt ensure the continuation of this demanding journey in years to come.

Here is a slideshow of some of my photos taken at this year's Sacred Mayan Journey event. Move the cursor over the screen to view captions. Click on individual images to see larger versions and for information on ordering prints or downloading photos.


Sacred Mayan Journey 2011 - Images by John Mitchell

Twilight of Panama City's Diablos Rojos

It won't be long before the infamous Diablos Rojos (Red Devils) will start disappearing from the congested streets of Panama City. These brightly -- some would say garishly -- painted recycled American school buses have been Panama City's main form of public transportation for several decades.

To foreign travelers, the Diablos Rojos are a novelty. With their exteriors plastered in figures from Panama's history, religious and folkloric scenes, and even cartoon characters, the buses provide splashes of color and imagination in an otherwise drab urban landscape. But for people who have to commute in them every day, the Diablo Rojos are a curse. They tend to be rolling sardine cans, hellishly hot, and unreliable. These environmentally unfriendly beasts also belch countless tons of noxious fumes into the humid tropical air.



However, the days of the Diablos Rojos (Red Devils) are apparently numbered. Panama City is planning to replace its freelance bus system with a fleet of air-conditioned, state-of-the-art coaches. The new Metro Bus system will be similar to ones found in Mexico City and several other Latin American metropolises. There is also talk of building a metro railway line that will probably be even more effective in reducing Panama City's legendary traffic chaos. For the time being, though, visitors to Panama City will still be able to fork over $0.25 and ride the Diablos Rojos to just about anywhere in town. 

Mexico City's Volkswagen Taxis: Adiós a los Vochos

They are homely, cramped, polluting, and -- with their two doors -- a kidnapper's dream come true. But Mexico City's Volkswagen Bug taxis have been one of the city's best known icons for almost half a century. Love them or loathe them, these once-ubiquitous, green and white vochos (as the locals call them) will soon be a thing of the past.

In 2002, Mexio City's environmentally-friendly mayor declared the VW Beetle taxis nuisances and gave their drivers ten years to either turn in their Bugs to the government for a cash payment or keep them for personal use. He also decreed that all Mexico City's taxis had to be less than ten years old and have four doors. Adding insult to injury, the last Mexican VW Beetle rolled off the assembly line a year later in the city of Puebla, where they had been made since 1967.

VW Bug taxis are a bit more difficult to spot these days because Mexico City's entire fleet of cabs was repainted gold and maroon in 2009 to mark Mexico's Bicentennial. There are still plenty of vochos prowling the city's congested streets. But if you haven't had the pleasure of riding in a vocho yet, you had better flag one down soon. They will all have beetled off into the sunset by 2012.

SAFETY NOTE: Kidnappings and theft by phony taxi drivers in Mexico City are now rare. Nevertheless, I always make sure that the driver has an official-looking identification card with his photo on it before I get into a cab. Guidebooks usually recommend telephoning for a taxi rather than stopping one on the street. This is probably good advice, and it is definitely the right thing to do at night.

Back to Guatemala: Central America Travel Market 2010

Last month (October) I was lucky enough to attend the Central America Travel Market or CATM 2010 in the Spanish colonial city of Antigua, Guatemala. Every year this important tourism fair is hosted by a different Central American nation. This year it was Guatemala's turn. The travel market was held on the grounds of the lovely Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, a restored 17th-century Dominican monastery, and Antigua's handsome colonial architecture and lively atmosphere provided a perfect backdrop for the numerous cultural events that were included in the program.

I hadn't been to Guatemala for several years, and it was wonderful to be back in this fascinating and colorful country. My recent visit has inspired me to put together a short slide-show of images from some of my favorite places in Guatemala. I've posted the result below.

Move the cursor over the screen to view captions. Click on individual  photos to see larger versions and for information about ordering prints or downloading files for personal, editorial or commercial use.


Guatemala Favorite Places - Images by John Mitchell

Tlaltecuhtli Gets a New Home in the Templo Mayor Museum

It isn't surprising that Mexico City residents are continually unearthing ancient Aztec artifacts from beneath their feet. After the Spanish conquistadors razed the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan in the early 1600’s, they built their colonial capital right on top of the ruins.

As far back as 1790, the now-famous Aztec Sun Stone was found underneath Mexico City’s Zocalo. Sometimes erroneously called the Aztec Calendar Stone, this enormous disk covered in cosmological symbols is thought to have been a sacrificial altar. It now occupies a prominent spot in the National Museum of Anthropology in Chapultepec Park. Almost two centuries later, in 1978, electrical workers made an equally impressive find when they dug up a giant circular stone depicting the dismembered moon goddess Coyolxauhqui, one of the most important figures in Aztec mythology.



Until recently these two sculptures reigned as the largest Aztec artifacts to have been discovered. Then in 2006 workers demolishing two buildings at the corner of Argentina and Guatemala Streets in Mexico City’s Historical Center uncovered a richly carved slab that turned out to be bigger than either the Sun Stone or the Coyolxauhqui stone. Fashioned from pink andesite, the rectangular monolith measures 4.2 meters by 3.6 meters and is about 40 centimeters thick. Archaeologists have determined that the sculpture bears the likeness of the earth goddess Tlaltecuhtli who, according to myth, gives birth to all living things and also devours them.

Tlaltecuhtli’s appearance is anything but inviting. She is depicted in an awkward squatting position as if giving birth. Her facial expression is fierce, and blood streams from her gaping mouth. Instead of hands and feet she has menacing-looking claws. One of them clutches a date glyph corresponding to 1502 A.D, suggesting that the monolith might have been the tombstone of Lord Ahuizotl, a ruler of Tenochtitlan who died that same year. Tlaltecuhtli’s knees and elbows are human skulls, and her skirt is decorated with crossed bone designs. The sculpture was painted in four colors – white, black, ochre and red – and substantial amounts of the original pigments are still visible.



In 2007, the Tlaltecuhtli monolith, which was found in four parts, was taken to a temporary location on Argentina Street for study and restoration. Then almost three years later, on May 17th 2010, two cranes gingerly transported the mammoth sculpture to the Templo Mayor Museum adjacent to the ruins of the Great Temple that stood at the heart of Tenochtitlan. This monumental task took 31 hours to complete and was managed by employees of Mexico’s National Institute of Archaeology and History (INAH).

In order to fit Tlaltecuhtli into the Templo Mayor Museum, the building’s main doors had to be temporarily removed. In addition, the foyer of the museum was reinforced with special braces so that it could support the 12-ton sculpture. Tlaltecuhtli is thought to have been a cult deity worshipped by Aztec priests, and offerings associated with the earth goddess are displayed in glass cases surrounding the sculpture. The monolith has been placed in a reclining position, and visitors can get an eagle’s eye view of Tlaltecuhtli from the museum’s upper floors.

The Templo Mayor is located at Seminario 8, next to the Metropolitan Cathedral. The ruins and museum are open Tuesday through Sunday (closed Mondays) from 9 am to 5 pm. The entrance fee is 51 pesos (about US$4.50), which includes admission to both the Templo Mayor archaeological site and the adjacent museum.

Move the cursor over the screen of the slide show below to view captions. Click on static images to view larger photos and for information about ordering prints or licensing.


Templo Mayor, Mexico City - Images by John Mitchell

Ghost Town Getaway: Posada de las Minas in Mineral de Pozos, Mexico

With its humble whitewashed buildings and nearly deserted cobblestone streets, Mineral de Pozos (or simply “Pozos”) is hardly a place where you would expect to find a luxury boutique hotel. However, that is exactly what has taken root in the heart of this sleepy Mexican town less than an hour’s drive from San Miguel de Allende.

During the late 1800’s, Pozos was a bustling mining community with as many as 70,000 inhabitants. But silver prices tanked and then the 1910 Mexican Revolution came along. The mines were gradually abandoned, tumbleweeds began rolling in, and Pozos turned into a virtual ghost town. Not until 1982 was Pozos’ significance officially recognized when the Mexican government made it a National Historical Treasure.

These days, Pozos is coming back to life as an artists' colony and budding tourist destination. Scattered around town are a number of art galleries (most open only on weekends) and handicrafts stores specializing in replicas of pre-Hispanic musical instruments and jewelry made from semi-precious stones. There are also sprawling old mines, haunting symbols of bygone prosperity, to explore on the outskirts of town. One of them, Mina Santa Brigida, has a trio of 50-foot-high smelting ovens dating back to the late 1500's.

Posada de las Minas is the labor of love of David and Julie Winslow, two enterprising Texans who fell for Pozos’ quiet charm and decided to settle there. In 2002, the Winslows bought a 19th-century building with the intention of turning it into a hotel. Three years of painstaking effort were required to transform the crumbling ruin into the work of art that now stands proudly on a street corner in downtown Pozos.



Rooms at the Posada de las Minas have just about everything guests could possibly wish for, down to nightlights and gold-colored toothbrush holders. Walls and alcoves are lovingly decorated with Mexican folk art thanks to the tasteful eye of Julie Winslow, who also runs a nearby clothing and handicrafts store called Sorpresas. Plants, birds, and flowers abound throughout the posada, and its spacious central courtyard has a tranquil outdoor dining area with a splashing fountain and a century-old tree. Next to the restaurant is a cozy Mexican cantina, which David Winslow claims is the “warmest place in town’’ on chilly winter evenings due to the hotel's radiant heating system.

The Winslows’ latest project is a new spa that is being constructed in another old building located two blocks from their hotel. It will boast a workout room, lap pool, health food restaurant, saunas, and massage facilities. Part of the spa's energy needs will be met by rooftop solar panels. During my recent visit, the dusty main courtyard was a beehive of activity with workers busy mixing concrete and plastering walls. David sounded confident that the spa will be welcoming health-conscious guests and serving smoothies by November 2010.

Perhaps the best news about the Posada de las Minas is its affordability. Room rates start as low as 1,120 Mexican pesos (about $88.00 US) for two people, and there are often discounts for Monday to Thursday stays. A hearty breakfast is included for all guests. The hotel's restaurant serves both Mexican and international dishes as well as delicious cakes, all of which are very reasonably priced.

Getting to Mineral de Pozos from San Miguel de Allende is easy. Most taxi drivers in San Miguel will drive you to Pozos for about 500 Mexican pesos ($41 US). The trip takes around 50 minutes along good roads. Return taxi service from Pozos is readily available for the same price.

For more information, visit the Posada de las Minas website: www.posadadelasminas.com (E-mail: info@posadadelasminas.com).

Posada de las Minas is a member of Mexico Boutique Hotels.

The Mineral de Pozos website also has a lot of useful information for visitors.

Move the cursor over the screen of the slide show below to view captions. Click on static images to see larger photos and for information about ordering prints or leasing photos for personal or editorial use.


Mineral de Pozos, Mexico - Images by John Mitchell

Guanajuato's Independence Route

During 2010, Mexico is commemorating both the bicentennial of its War of Independence against Spain and the centennial of the Mexican Revolution that overthrew the dictatorship of Porfirio Diaz. As part of the celebrations, a number of specially marked historical routes along the nation's highways have been established.

Mexico's struggle for independence began on September 15, 1810, when a parish priest named Miguel Hidalgo issued his famous call to arms or "Grito de Dolores" in the town of Dolores Hidalgo. On the following day, Hidalgo and his ragtag army of some 20,000 rebels marched to the city of Guanajuato where they stormed the Alhondiga de Granaditas. Barricaded inside this former granary's massive walls were Spanish troops and wealthy loyalists. With the help a local miner nicknamed "El Pipila," who managed to set the Alhondiga's wooden doors on fire, the rebels entered the Alhondiga after a long siege and killed almost everyone inside, thereby winning the first battle of the war.

One of the "Ruta 2010" road trips that I can highly recommend is the Ruta de la Independencia (Independence Route) in the state of Guanajuato. This tour begins in Dolores Hidalgo and ends in the city of Guanajuato. The itinerary includes stops at ten of the historical locales visted by Miguel Hidalgo and his insurgents on their march to Guanajuato.

Below is a slide-show of some of the places along the Independence Route that I have explored. Mouse over the images to view captions. Please click on individual slides for more information.


Guanajuato - Independence Route - Images by John Mitchell

Mexico to Celebrate the Carta del Cielo in 2010

Dust off your binoculars because Mexico is planning to celebrate the stars during 2010. According to the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), astronomy-related activities will be held at archaeological sites as well as in public plazas and parks throughout Mexico.

These events will honor Mexico's important role in creating the Carta del Cielo (Sky Chart) during the late 19th century. The Paris Observatory invited the Mexican government to take part in this ambitious scientific project, which involved creating an atlas of stars that are not bright enough to be seen with the naked eye.

Mexico subsequently contributed over 1200 celestial photographs taken with a new telescope bought in 1889 from a company in Dublin, Ireland. The original Carta del Cielo telescope is still in excellent condition and continues to be used at the Tonantzintla Observatory in the state of Puebla.

Photo of El Caracol, the Maya astronomical observatory at Chichen Itza

¡Viva Acapulco!

Acapulco has received some disturbing press lately after brutal drug-related murders took place in this famous Mexican resort city. Consequently, I thought I would try to lighten things up by sharing a slideshow of photos that I've taken during several visits to Acapulco during recent years.

Acapulco enjoys a well-deserved reputation as a romantic getaway and an all-night party town. But it is much more than these. The port of Acapulco has a long and rich history, and visitors can spice up their margaritas with a generous splash of Mexican culture if they so choose.

Move the cursor over the images to see licensing information or to order prints.


Acapulco - Images by John Mitchell

Mexico's Monarch Butterfly Population at All-Time Low

According to a census taken by World Wildlife Fund - Mexico, the number of monarch butterflies wintering in Mexico has fallen to the lowest on record.



Every autumn, tens of millions of monarch butterflies migrate from as far away as eastern Canada to the states of Mexico and Michoacan. Here, they hibernate in the mountainous terrain, coating the oyamel fir trees in brilliant orange blankets. When air temperatures warm in the spring, they begin their long journey back to their northern breeding grounds.

The recent drop in the number of monarch butterflies over-wintering in Mexico is being blamed mainly on drought plus abnormally high and low temperatures in parts of North America where the monarchs reproduce. Also, the insects' Mexican habitat continues to be illegally deforested in order to harvest valuable timber and clear land for agriculture.

Although scientists say that the monarch butterflies are not in danger of extinction, they think that their declining numbers may threaten the annual migration to Mexico.

Mexico has four monarch butterfly sanctuaries in Michoacan and the Estado de Mexico. They were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 and now comprise the 56,259 hectare (about 139,00 acres) Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve.



For tourist information on Mexico's monarch butterfly sanctuaries, visit the WWF- Mexico website.

The San Miguel de Allende Historical Museum

Sagging American and Canadian retirees aren’t the only ones getting facelifts in San Miguel de Allende these days. The Museo Historico de San Miguel de Allende has been remodeled by Mexico’s National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) as part of Mexico’s Independence Bicentennial celebrations.

This compact museum – often overlooked by foreign tourists – is housed in a handsome colonial-era building next to the Gothic-style Parroquia (parish church) on San Miguel’s main square. The museum has two patios surrounded by arcades and two floors of displays chronicling the history of San Miguel de Allende and the Mexican Independence War that began in 1810. Highlighted is the role of Ignacio Allende, a hero of Mexico’s independence movement who was born in San Miguel in 1779. There are also documentary videos plus a replica of a Spanish colonial pharmacy with original medicines and fittings.

Restoration of the museum took two years to complete and included the installation of better lighting, a new security system, plus new drain and electrical systems. The museum was re-inaugurated by Felipe Calderon, the current president of Mexico, on April 4th, 2009.

The San Miguel de Allende Historical Museum is located at 1 Cuna de Allende Street. Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm. Admission is about US$3.00.

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San Miguel de Allende History Museum - Images by John Mitchell

Reforesting Chichen Itza

It appears that even the ancient Maya ruins at Chichen Itza are feeling the effects of global warming. The heating of the Earth’s atmosphere has reportedly changed the rain patterns and lengthened the dry season at Chichen Itza. Resulting drought, along with lightning storms and hurricanes, has taken a heavy toll on the sprawling archaeological site’s trees and other natural vegetation.

In response to this loss of greenery, Mexico’s National Institute of Anthropology (INAH) has reforested vulnerable areas of Chichen Itza with 3000 trees indigenous to the Yucatan. Included among the species are mahogany, cedar, flamboyant, plus other trees and bushes traditionally used by the Maya for food, construction, and the making of handicrafts. An additional 1000 trees will be planted in 2010, and seeds are being conserved to eventually stock greenhouses with saplings. Grass in heavily trafficked areas of Chichen Itza is also being regenerated.

Mexico City's New Metrobus System

Mexico City is an endlessly fascinating place to explore, but getting around one of the world’s largest metropolises can be exhausting and frustrating to say the least. I usually take the speedy Metro (subway) whenever I can. If it gets overcrowded, as it often does, I can always surface for air and hail a taxi. However, on a recent trip to La Capital, I also rode the Metrobus, a new rapid transit system running north-south along the entire length of Avenida Insurgentes, which is said to be the longest urban avenue in the world.

The bright red, serpent-like, articulated Metrobuses have their own dedicated lanes, and they stop at 45 modern stations on Avenida Insurgentes. I found the buses to be quite comfortable. Most of the time, I was able to find a seat right away or after standing for a stop two, not bad in a city with millions of potential passengers. The fare is paid electronically with a rechargeable “smartcard,” and at five pesos (less than 50 cents) per ride, it’s a real bargain.

The Metrobus system also qualifies as sustainable, relatively green public transportation. It has replaced hundreds of conventional buses and reportedly has reduced annual carbon dioxide emissions by more than 35,000 tons. Another environmentally friendly feature is that cyclists are allowed to bring their bikes on board during non-peak hours.

In early 2009, a newly completed second Metrobus line with 36 stations started operating east-west along Eje 4 Sur. I haven’t traveled this route yet, but I’m looking forward to using it to explore more of "El Monstro" (The Monster), as the locals sometimes call their hometown.

For more information and route maps, visit the Metrobus (in Spanish) website.

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Mexico City Landmarks - Images by John Mitchell

Mexico City Goes Green

Mexico City doesn’t exactly have a reputation for being a pedestrian or bicycle-friendly city. In fact, most of the time, crossing the teeming boulevards of La Capital makes me feel like a lone matador being charged by a herd of enraged, snorting bulls. Consequently, I was amazed one recent Sunday morning to find the eight-lane Paseo de la Reforma completely closed to traffic and awash in a sea of happy bicyclists, rollerbladers, walkers, and joggers.

Every Sunday from 9am until 2pm, the city now bans motorized vehicles on the Paseo de La Reforma, one of Mexico City’s busiest arteries, and on several streets in the Centro Historico (Historical Center). This allows cyclists to go all the way from Chapultepec Park to the Zocalo, Mexico City’s main square. On the third Sunday of every month, more streets are closed to create a 30 km circuit (19 miles) called the Cicloton. The city rents bikes and hands them out free to people, so it’s no surprise that these outings attract thousands of participants. I saw pedalers of all ages, including entire families and even punk rockers whizzing down the usually traffic-clogged Paseo de la Reforma.

This project is part of an ongoing plan to make Mexico City’s transportation infrastructure greener and more sustainable. Bicycles are now allowed on the Metro (subway) and on the new Metrobus system that traverses the city along Avenida Insurgentes. Other initiatives include increased parking for bicycles and the establishment of additional centers where people can borrow bikes.

On my visit, I was also heartened to see leaf-green, environmentally friendly pedicabs gliding through the smoggy downtown streets. These new hybrid taxis, powered by both leg power and electric motors, take sightseers and regular passengers along predetermined routes in the city center. Kudos to Mexico City for improving the livability of one of the world’s largest and most polluted metropolises, and for setting an example for the rest of the planet to follow.

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Mexico City Goes Green - Images by John Mitchell

Preserving Las Pozas in San Luis Potosi, Mexico

Las Pozas is truly one of the hidden wonders of 20th-century Mexico. Located in the lush rain forest of the isolated Huasteca Potosina region of San Luis Potosi state, this remarkable surrealistic sculpture garden was created by Edward James, an eccentric British poet, nature lover, and art patron. Between 1949 and 1984, James built 36 fantastical concrete sculptures in an 80-acre parcel of jungle near the mountain town of Xilitla.

Born in 1907 into extreme wealth, young Edward James lived a life of privilege. He was brought up on 6000-acre West Dean Estate in West Essex and attended Eton and Oxford. James later mingled with London high-society and embraced the literary and art worlds of his time. After a failed marriage to dancer Tilly Losch, James moved to Europe where he befriended Salvador Dali, Magritte and other members of the nascent surrealist movement. Knowing a good thing when he saw it, Edward James amassed a large collection of surrealist paintings, which he later sold to finance the construction of his own artistic fantasies at Las Pozas.

Today, a visit to Las Pozas offers a walk through a fairytale world of giant bamboo-shaped columns surmounted by concrete flowers, and half-finished cement towers sprouting leafy motifs and tentacles of rusted rebar. Precarious spiral staircases ascend to the open sky, and narrow bridges lead to pristine waterfalls tumbling through the trees. Surprises await at each turn in the winding path: faded yellow and blue Gothic arches clinging to weathered facades, stone walls with eye-shaped peepholes surveying the greenery, and giant fleurs de lys sculptures blooming in the tangled undergrowth.

Edward James died in 1984, leaving Las Pozas in the care of his longtime friend and construction supervisor Plutarco Gastelum. In 2007, the Gastelum family sold Las Pozas to Fondo Xilitla, a nonprofit organization established to preserve and repair Las Pozas' sculptures, which are slowly being devoured by the jungle. Like a true surrealist, Edward James felt that his home should never be finished, so it is only fitting that Fondo Xilitla is planning to pick up where James left off.

GETTING THERE: Xilitla is situated about 350 kms (220 miles) southeast of the city of San Luis Potosi. There is frequent first-class bus service from San Luis Potosi (via Ciudad Valles) to Xilitla. The most interesting place to stay in Xilitla is the Posada El Castillo, Edward James' former home and something of a surrealist fantasy itself. An attractive alternative is the Hostal del Cafe, a welcoming small hotel set in a patch of tropical jungle only a few minutes walk from downtown Xilitla. Las Pozas lies three km (two miles) north of Xilita. Admission is about US$3.00. Opening hours are daily from 9am until 6pm. For more information about Fondo Xilitla, visit the organization's website.

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Las Pozas Mexico - Images by John Mitchell